Avg: 2.9 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Mike Schlauch, Eric Vining, Naomi Guy|
|Page Views:||1,254 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||mike schlauch on May 9, 2018|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The one pitch route climbs the face and blunt buttress to the right of Anthill Direct's second pitch. We've climbed a direct finish to the route that will not require any bolts, more on that later.
The Blunt Buttress is essentially a trad route with 5 bolts that protect the meat of the route. If you don't like mixed routes, then don't head up here expecting a clip-up. There are solid gear opportunities before and after the bolts. It climbs very similarly to The Vaporizer, maybe a letter grade or two easier.
Start from a gear belay (currently 2 large fixed nuts) where P1 of I Can't Copeland and The Sidetrack intersect in the large, right-facing corner. Climb up 10 feet, and locate the first bolt on your left. Use a long runner on this bolt to reduce rope drag up higher. Climb up and left onto a stance, and follow the next 4 bolts up the face. The climbing wanders a little bit between the second and third bolts, always staying to the left of the bolts, and then heads straight up to a crux passing the fifth bolt.
After the fifth bolt, you'll reach a nice horizontal crack. Place a yellow or red Alien-sized piece and a small nut if you want to sew it up, and climb more 5.11 to progressively easier terrain. This section feels similar to The Interceptor. There will be more gear opportunities - medium nut or yellow Alien in a solid "ear" about 10 feet above the crack. This section is a little spicy.
From here, you have several options to choose from: probably easiest, just step left and belay at the Anthill Direct P2 belay. You can also step left, pass that belay, and continue up a 5.7 corner (this is part of I Can't Copeland, P3) to a belay directly below The Vaporizer. If you climb straight up past some cool knobs there's also a 5.8 crack that goes straight up to The Vaporizer. Lastly, you can climb the knobs and then traverse straight right (5.8 R) to the giant ledge called Sidetrack Junction. This last option is nice, because you can set a comfortable belay off a tree, extend the rope, and watch your partner follow the route.
Finish on The Vaporizer, Archer-McLanahan, Sidetrack, or PA's Variation, and walk off. If you want to rappel instead of climb off, you can rap off the large tree on Sidetrack Junction down the ramp to the two bolt anchor on Pilgrim/High Noon and then one more rappel to the ground. A 70m rope is required.
If you're looking for a 12+ project, the seam to the left of The Vaporizer is the 4th pitch of I Can't Copeland. It will need a few bolts and the normal ACE application process, etc.