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The Blunt Buttress
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 18
votes
Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
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A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Anthill/Redguard Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Archer McLenahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Backtalk T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Balance of Terror T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Desdichado T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Genesis T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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I Can't Copeland Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Lakme T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13 |
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Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Restless Nights T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Slack Walk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schlauch, Eric Vining, Naomi Guy |
| Page Views: | 1,818 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | mike schlauch on May 9, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Blunt Buttress is a great new addition to the South Buttress. It offers a nice multi-pitch 5.11 excursion when climbed as an approach to The Vaporizer. The route was approved by ACE and the public review process in the Spring of 2018. It's still a bit licheny, but the key holds are clean. Maybe bring a brush.
The one pitch route climbs the face and blunt buttress to the right of Anthill Direct's second pitch. We've climbed a direct finish to the route that will not require any bolts, more on that later.
The Blunt Buttress is essentially a trad route with 5 bolts that protect the meat of the route. If you don't like mixed routes, then don't head up here expecting a clip-up. There are solid gear opportunities before and after the bolts. It climbs very similarly to The Vaporizer, maybe a letter grade or two easier.
Start from a gear belay (currently 2 large fixed nuts) where P1 of I Can't Copeland and The Sidetrack intersect in the large, right-facing corner. Climb up 10 feet, and locate the first bolt on your left. Use a long runner on this bolt to reduce rope drag up higher. Climb up and left onto a stance, and follow the next 4 bolts up the face. The climbing wanders a little bit between the second and third bolts, always staying to the left of the bolts, and then heads straight up to a crux passing the fifth bolt.
After the fifth bolt, you'll reach a nice horizontal crack. Place a yellow or red Alien-sized piece and a small nut if you want to sew it up, and climb more 5.11 to progressively easier terrain. This section feels similar to The Interceptor. There will be more gear opportunities - medium nut or yellow Alien in a solid "ear" about 10 feet above the crack. This section is a little spicy.
From here, you have several options to choose from: probably easiest, just step left and belay at the Anthill Direct P2 belay. You can also step left, pass that belay, and continue up a 5.7 corner (this is part of I Can't Copeland, P3) to a belay directly below The Vaporizer. If you climb straight up past some cool knobs there's also a 5.8 crack that goes straight up to The Vaporizer. Lastly, you can climb the knobs and then traverse straight right (5.8 R) to the giant ledge called Sidetrack Junction. This last option is nice, because you can set a comfortable belay off a tree, extend the rope, and watch your partner follow the route.
Finish on The Vaporizer, Archer-McLanahan, Sidetrack, or PA's Variation, and walk off. If you want to rappel instead of climb off, you can rap off the large tree on Sidetrack Junction down the ramp to the two bolt anchor on Pilgrim/High Noon and then one more rappel to the ground. A 70m rope is required.
If you're looking for a 12+ project, the seam to the left of The Vaporizer is the 4th pitch of I Can't Copeland. It will need a few bolts and the normal ACE application process, etc.
The one pitch route climbs the face and blunt buttress to the right of Anthill Direct's second pitch. We've climbed a direct finish to the route that will not require any bolts, more on that later.
The Blunt Buttress is essentially a trad route with 5 bolts that protect the meat of the route. If you don't like mixed routes, then don't head up here expecting a clip-up. There are solid gear opportunities before and after the bolts. It climbs very similarly to The Vaporizer, maybe a letter grade or two easier.
Start from a gear belay (currently 2 large fixed nuts) where P1 of I Can't Copeland and The Sidetrack intersect in the large, right-facing corner. Climb up 10 feet, and locate the first bolt on your left. Use a long runner on this bolt to reduce rope drag up higher. Climb up and left onto a stance, and follow the next 4 bolts up the face. The climbing wanders a little bit between the second and third bolts, always staying to the left of the bolts, and then heads straight up to a crux passing the fifth bolt.
After the fifth bolt, you'll reach a nice horizontal crack. Place a yellow or red Alien-sized piece and a small nut if you want to sew it up, and climb more 5.11 to progressively easier terrain. This section feels similar to The Interceptor. There will be more gear opportunities - medium nut or yellow Alien in a solid "ear" about 10 feet above the crack. This section is a little spicy.
From here, you have several options to choose from: probably easiest, just step left and belay at the Anthill Direct P2 belay. You can also step left, pass that belay, and continue up a 5.7 corner (this is part of I Can't Copeland, P3) to a belay directly below The Vaporizer. If you climb straight up past some cool knobs there's also a 5.8 crack that goes straight up to The Vaporizer. Lastly, you can climb the knobs and then traverse straight right (5.8 R) to the giant ledge called Sidetrack Junction. This last option is nice, because you can set a comfortable belay off a tree, extend the rope, and watch your partner follow the route.
Finish on The Vaporizer, Archer-McLanahan, Sidetrack, or PA's Variation, and walk off. If you want to rappel instead of climb off, you can rap off the large tree on Sidetrack Junction down the ramp to the two bolt anchor on Pilgrim/High Noon and then one more rappel to the ground. A 70m rope is required.
If you're looking for a 12+ project, the seam to the left of The Vaporizer is the 4th pitch of I Can't Copeland. It will need a few bolts and the normal ACE application process, etc.
Location
Refer to the picture on page 153 of the second edition of the Levin guide. It climbs the empty space between Route 73 (Sidetrack) and 74 (Anthill Direct). Also refer to the topo attached.
Approach via I Can't Copeland, Sidetrack, or traverse from Anthill Direct.
Approach via I Can't Copeland, Sidetrack, or traverse from Anthill Direct.
Photos
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