Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: two anonymous cowards (Steve Dieckhoff & Rolo Garibotti)
Page Views: 957 total · 5/month
Shared By: Rolo Garibotti on May 1, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

Elvis, a very hip guy, and I, an arthritic vegan, climbed a new route (60 feet of new ground), in Eldorado. We both agreed that it is good enough to deserve two stars (very good rock and fun climbing, especially for those that appreciate slabs). From the anchors at the end of the first pitch of Night (Blackwalk area) climb up and left, 10 o'clock, towards High Noon, joining this route at its second to last bolt, and continuing via these to the anchors. Our line, which we christened "Restless Nights", climbs a very tenuous and delicate slab, tiptoeing up a series of dime size edges. We climbed it in "head-point style", rehearsing it before leading it. Even though it is ot a deadly route, the protection is sparse and a fall could result in some bodily damage courtesy of an unfriendly looking spike. I think an S rating is well deserved.

To top-rope it, climb Blackwalk and continue up via Walk the Talk (5.9+s) to the end of the obvious roof, and before standing up above it, plug two or more cams (red and yellow Camalots) as a TR anchor, from where one can lower directly to the Night anchors.

To lead the route, it s best for the belayer to lower himself 20 feet below the Night anchors in order to avoid a potential factor 2 fall, ince the first pro is about 20 feet up (11+). Those first crucial pieces are a green Alien and a number 4 Wild Country Rock in a small slot (we pre-placed them because we were too chicken to fiddle with gear while clinging to dime size edges - maybe we will have to go back to it to do it in a more manly style). The crux (12 something) is a series of moves leading up and left from the pro to reach better holds directly below the second to last bolt of High Noon climbing well left of the big huecos of Walk the Talk). Before reaching the High Noon bolt, it is possible to place a number 2 Wild Country Rock. More "self-serving" [- for you head-pointing pleasure.]

Protection

A green Alien, #2 and #4 Rocks, four quickdraws.

Photos

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I was happy not to be on the sharp end of this one! It is a beautiful section of rock and the climbing is sustained and THIN. Art Veg has a longish reach so I'd be curious how someone with a shorter set of arms would do this. If you do Walk the Talk, there are 2 options - use the bolt and holds on Blacktop or follow the original 'undercling' just above - both lead to the rest of the traverse just fine. Modern climbers will no doubt prefer the bolt and somewhat harder moves.

x0x0x0x0 Elvis

P.S. High Noon is a great pitch. Kudos to Mike. May 3, 2004
kiff  
Has this and Night ever been linked for a single pitch of fear packed glory? Apr 30, 2012
Rolo Garibotti
5.12c R
Rolo Garibotti  
5.12c R
The second anonymous coward, the one that posted this route, would have been me. It is harder than the Lion, so more like 12c than b. The holds are quite small, the climbing very tenuous.

In regards to Kiff's question, doing it in one pitch with Night would make for a great pitch. Rope drag might be an issue. Also note that I led it with the two first pieces pre-placed. Should have gone back to do it "properly" but never did. May 29, 2015