Anthill/Redguard Traverse
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 176 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Daniel Cohn on Mar 6, 2018 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
From the belay in the location section, follow the maroon band through a bulge with good holds. Continue following the maroon band after the bulge. Your belayer can't see you, but the climbing is easy. Near the end of the traverse, there is a small roof, which is the crux. There is acceptable pro below and above the roof. Negotiate a slick slabby section and join Redguard. Climb Redguard 20 feet or so to the last belay station with a pin.
I don't know if this is an FA or a first recorded ascent. The line is not in the guidebook, and there was no evidence of the route being climbed. It does have a photogenic location and might be interesting if you've already climbed everything else.
I don't know if this is an FA or a first recorded ascent. The line is not in the guidebook, and there was no evidence of the route being climbed. It does have a photogenic location and might be interesting if you've already climbed everything else.
Location
I think the 4th pitch of Anthill Direct crosses a large ramp. This ramp is located above the 5.6 R section. Follow this ramp left to its end. There is an obvious, large, flat spot. Belay here.
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