Type: Trad
FA: John Allen & Alec Sharp
Page Views: 1,168 total · 5/month
Shared By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is on page 331 of Rossiter's new Eldo guide.

It is in the Blackwalk area, behind the Whale's Tail.

To the left of Blackwalk and to the right of Back in Black is A BREED APART. There was a movie by this name with Rutger Hauer which involved a lot of climbing, shooting, and explosions.

From the rampy traverse, head up into a bulge. Good protection can be arranged here including a large cam in a slot on the left. These protect the crux which is getting to a stance just above and to the left. Another large cam can be placed here. The rest of the pitch follows the same pattern-a few moves to a stance where good protection is found although the moves to the 'obvious crack' are rather balancy. Aim for an obvious crack, and follow that to finish on Blackwalk or finish left of the obvious crack on the 'Garibotti variation'.

This route has been cleaned up a bit in recent years and, as I said, good protection is available at comfortable stances. It is easily toproped (60m) for a rehearsed lead if you wish.

Protection

RPs, medium to #3 Camalot.

Photos

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