Type: Trad
FA: John Allen & Alec Sharp
Page Views: 1,461 total · 5/month
Shared By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


8 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is on page 331 of Rossiter's new Eldo guide.

It is in the Blackwalk area, behind the Whale's Tail.

To the left of Blackwalk and to the right of Back in Black is A BREED APART. There was a movie by this name with Rutger Hauer which involved a lot of climbing, shooting, and explosions.

From the rampy traverse, head up into a bulge. Good protection can be arranged here including a large cam in a slot on the left. These protect the crux which is getting to a stance just above and to the left. Another large cam can be placed here. The rest of the pitch follows the same pattern-a few moves to a stance where good protection is found although the moves to the 'obvious crack' are rather balancy. Aim for an obvious crack, and follow that to finish on Blackwalk or finish left of the obvious crack on the 'Garibotti variation'.

This route has been cleaned up a bit in recent years and, as I said, good protection is available at comfortable stances. It is easily toproped (60m) for a rehearsed lead if you wish.

Protection Suggest change

RPs, medium to #3 Camalot.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading