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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Todd Montgomery, Mike Brooks, & Dan Hruby, 1987
Page Views: 1,443 total, 8/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Pilgrim has some great climbing and mild (safe) runouts, but in my opinion it is not nearly as classic as comparable routes on the Bulge wall proper. Begin by climbing the first pitch of Pseudo Sidetrack and belaying at the obvious tree (as of 2003 this tree is just barely hanging on for its life). Look up and see a lone bolt slightly right (High Noon), and a pair of bolts slightly left (Pilgrim). Make difficult moves past these and head up past an optional small stopper placement and two more bolts. The crux (and best moves on the route) comes just past the fourth bolt -- it looks improbable but the edges keep appearing. It has a two bolt anchor with links.

P.S.: High Noon is a total sandbag at 5.11a, whereas Pilgrim felt right on at 10d - a good way to put up a TR if you're near your limit.

Protection

A fixed pin and four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
A climb with bolts where you need them, a few small steel or brass nuts from OK stances, and a few places where you just have to go for it. None of it was dangerous, but plenty of it was exciting. If it had been more closely protected, it would be less of a route. This one was done 'just right' for that kind of experience.
I thought the true crux was at the section between the first and second bolt (you can clip #2 before the move if you are mildly creative), but up top the moves are thin and if you didn't take your rests, that might feel just as hard. May 15, 2012
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.10d
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.10d
Excellent route with lots of sustained face climbing on small holds. Jun 4, 2011
Scott Bennett
  5.10+
Scott Bennett  
  5.10+
Definitely a fun, worthwhile route on good rock with cool position.

There are two-bolt anchors at the start and finish of this pitch.

To descend, you can easily rap from top of the route back to the two-bolt anchor at the start (80'), and then make an angling rap along the Pseudo-Sidetrack ramp back to the ground (110', or 100' with 4th class downclimbing). Jun 3, 2011
We, me, my partner and Rossiter feel the crux is by the the first bolt. I thought this pitch was not a give away for the grade (much harder than Backtalk which I'd done immediately prior.) The climbing rock and position on the "slab" (above the second bolt) are quite nice. This route is similar to its sister routes, Blackwalk, Backtalk etc., but the ambience is more out there and the rock is unpolished. For those shorter than 5'7" the move above the 4th bolt could raise the difficulty and severity of the pitch.

Continuously interesting after the 1st 10 feet.

Typical Eldo crux, the rating seems accurate once you figure out the trick. There is also some 5.10 climbing by the 3rd and 4th bolts. Jun 28, 2003