Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brad Bond, Mike Schlauch, Spring 2018
Page Views: 787 total · 29/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on Apr 17, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Slack Walk is a bolt protected face climb located about 40' left of the bolted anchor at the start of Pilgrim and High Noon. There are 5 bolts. The route has well-protected crux moves and a few easy runouts on good stone. The route was approved by ACE, the Park, and the public review process in March 2018.

There are a few crispy holds at the start but the first bolt is very easy to clip. The crux is passing the second bolt. After the crux, climb up and right on easy runout climbing to the third bolt. A few more tricky bulges will lead up and left to an easy slab. Follow the slab to a crack system (good gear) which leads left back to rejoin Pseudo-Sidetrack. Continue a few more moves to a large ledge where Pseudo-Sidetrack and Pseudo-Sidetrack Direct diverge. Follow either of these to the top, and descend the East Slabs.

A rappel option is to downclimb 15' from the divergence ledge to a 1980s bolt and pin anchor (bring some tat) and rappel down maybe 50' to the upper Pilgrim/High Noon anchor. Keep in mind that a 70m is needed for this option, and even with a 70m, you need to pay close attention to the ends on the last rap.

Location

Start by climbing Pseudo-Sidetrack for about 200', veering right when the large tree on Sidetrack Junction comes into view. Belay at a good stance below the first bolt (#0.75 - 1 Camalot).  It is also possible to downclimb from the large tree at Sidetrack Junction or climb to the lower anchor on High Noon/Pilgrim and follow the strata up and left to the start of the route.

Protection

5 bolts plus a light standard Eldo rack.

Photos