Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brad Bond, Mike Schlauch, Spring 2018
Page Views: 451 total · 44/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on Apr 17, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Slack Walk is a bolt protected face climb located about 40' left of the bolted anchor at the start of Pilgrim and High Noon. There are 5 bolts. The route has well-protected crux moves and a few easy runouts on good stone. The route was approved by ACE, the Park, and the public review process in March 2018.

There are a few crispy holds at the start but the first bolt is very easy to clip. The crux is passing the second bolt. After the crux, climb up and right on easy runout climbing to the third bolt. A few more tricky bulges will lead up and left to an easy slab. Follow the slab to a crack system (good gear) which leads left back to rejoin Pseudo-Sidetrack. Continue a few more moves to a large ledge where Pseudo-Sidetrack and Pseudo-Sidetrack Direct diverge. Follow either of these to the top, and descend the East Slabs.

A rappel option is to downclimb 15' from the divergence ledge to a 1980s bolt and pin anchor (bring some tat) and rappel down maybe 50' to the upper Pilgrim/High Noon anchor. Keep in mind that a 70m is needed for this option, and even with a 70m, you need to pay close attention to the ends on the last rap.

Location

Start by climbing Pseudo-Sidetrack for about 200', veering right when the large tree on Sidetrack Junction comes into view. Belay at a good stance below the first bolt (#0.75 - 1 Camalot).  It is also possible to downclimb from the large tree at Sidetrack Junction or climb to the lower anchor on High Noon/Pilgrim and follow the strata up and left to the start of the route.

Protection

5 bolts plus a light standard Eldo rack.

Photos

Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Climbed this new line on April 16th and really enjoyed it. My partner...not so much. Because the third bolt was placed so far right, the second climber must be prepared to pull these crux moves or swing out right into featureless territory. My partner was not prepared. Luckily, we had walkie-talkies. I was 200 feet up and had to lower my partner down to the ramp to start all over again. He was perplexed and had no clue how to get through this crux. I had him clip into the 2nd bolt and ascend the rope with a Grigri to get above the roof. Kind of a funny little epic for him,,, I think 10b is a fair rating through the roof with a 10a-ish series of moves at the 4th bolt. Beautiful face climbing on good rock! Apr 30, 2018
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
  5.10a PG13
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
  5.10a PG13
Posted a photo above of a highly recommended link-up: C'est la Vie (arete variation ~110'). Traverse right to join Pseudo Sidetrack for ~165'. Move belay down 15' (you can use the first bolt and a #1 for an anchor here). We didn't take the rappel, but I did finally locate the bolt & pin at the edge of the waterfall that would let you get back down to Pilgrim/High Noon. Fun route. May 23, 2018
JerryN
  5.10a PG13
JerryN  
  5.10a PG13
Climbed this with Gregger Man via the C'est la Vie approach. I have done P1 of C'est la Vie several times and felt that it is more difficult than Slackwalk. Still a fun climb and worth doing. May 23, 2018
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
For my 2nd time up Slackwalk (Oct. 1st), I wanted to see if anyone had added equalized anchor slings to the old bolt/fixed pin rappel anchor. We climbed a (what seemed) new exit variation to gain that lower ledge (see the topo photo). After leaving the 5th bolt, climb runout moderate face up to the obvious, leftward-leaning crack. Place a few pieces, and step out right to climb around the overhanging corner via massive, incut handrails. These holds and available gear placements were in need of some cleaning of surface plates and emptying of cracks. Now there are good gear placements to protect this Rightward Exit. Another 15 foot traverse rightward brings you to the lower ledge with the old bolt/fixed pin rappel anchor, and yes, there was new equalized slings on the anchor now.(NOW THERE IS A NEW 2-BOLT w/CHAINS ANCHOR!) Instead of climbing up 20 feet to the upper exit ledge, over rightward for 15 feet and then downclimb 15 feet,,, This variation allows a direct finish to this belay/rappel anchor. Two 35 meter rappels will bring you to the ground. Be sure to knot the ends.... Oct 9, 2018