5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|Page Views:||681 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on May 31, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This is a climb somewhat reminiscent of The Bulge but less direct and less impressive. The nature of the climbing and gear, and their respective difficulties, however, is the same.
Start form a point on the trail a few meters above the tall pine growing at the cliff base. Climb up and slightly left on low angle, easy rock until a right-leaning, rising ramp can be traversed upward, with a crack/flack just over it. Follow this flake to its end, cutting back left below a steep and flat headwall, again following lower angle rock and flakes above this, staying just below the bulge overhead. Pull out left into cracks at a near-vertical section, finagle some gear in, the head back out right onto a ledge with a medium-sized pine tree and belay. Although you are perhaps only 80-90' off of the ground, you will have climbed about 115' feet of rock to arrive here along the way to avoid the difficult plumb-line, which is more or less the climb 'Genuine Risk.'
This route starts as for Genuine Risk. Go uphill along the Bulge Wall for some distance toward the Hawk-Eagle Ridge or Wind Ridge belay base. A tall, thin, lone pine tree is passed just a few meters before you encounter a low angle section below some massive flakes that form a series of zig-zag flakes and ramps that climb upward for 90' to a shelf with a belay tree. This is where the climb starts.