Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tony Bubb, Sandra Rea, 9/23/05|
|Page Views:||386 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 22, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
P1. Climb the first pitch of "Genesis" though the roof, (10c, hands) to the step left (11a, thin) and then up the face (11a, thin) to where the angle eases off and you can go left on the diagonal bolt line of "Exodus" (11b, tricky and thin), which is followed to the belay bolts at the base of the dihedral of the top pitch of "Book of Numbers." Belay there.
P2. Climb up a few meters into the "Book of Numbers" corner, and clip an old manky KB with a long sling, then break left around the corner (5.10, S-) as for the 3rd pitch of "Exodus." This is on OK rock, and the holds around the corner are there but not obvious at first. It requires some commitment on dubious gear. From there, Exodus goes up and right to the 3rd belay of "Book of Numbers," but the target has changed. Looking up and slightly left you will see a huge slot above a long, low-angle, right-leaning dihedral, which is the top pitch of the route "Sidetrack." Aim upward and only slightly left on mostly moderate terrain with a few 5.8' moves thrown in for good measure. This is on buckets, but it has very little gear. You will come to a finger crack maybe 10 meters down and just right of the right hand edge of the bottom of the slot. Protect this! The finger crack splits into a "V"-shaped crack, with both sides being like an undercling flake and with excellent jams. Protect this with 1" (+/-) cams and do the crux of this pitch (5.10) to move up and left and onto the belay in the huge slot (good natural pro) or finish by climbing up the slot as for Sidetrack and finish on the Juniper Ledge.
This route is a new pitch added onto an already classic pitch-and-a-half. The climbing is 3*s when you add it all up, but this pitch is only a 2* pitch.
I looked for any line that might be historically similar and failed to find it. As well, larger holds on this route were not showing signs of passage as I crushed and brushed deep tufts of lichen from them, and crux pro required some crack-cleaning (removing pebbles and chips) to put in gear that one would certainly want. These factors and the complete absence of any sign of nailing in an area otherwise filled with tons of fixed pins and scars indicated to me the probability of a first ascent.