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Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Archer McLanahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Backtalk T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Desdichado T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Genesis T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Restless Nights T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Vaporizer, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony Bubb, Sandra Rea, 9/23/05
Page Views: 113 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 22, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route is a new pitch in the area of Genesis, Exodus, Leviticus, Deuteronomy, and Book of Numbers area. With all of those names taken, I struggled for a related name, but nothing fit until we came up with the idea "Continue-us." Ergo, the route name that is both relevant and fits with the area, in a way.

P1. Climb the first pitch of "Genesis" though the roof, (10c, hands) to the step left (11a, thin) and then up the face (11a, thin) to where the angle eases off and you can go left on the diagonal bolt line of "Exodus" (11b, tricky and thin), which is followed to the belay bolts at the base of the dihedral of the top pitch of "Book of Numbers." Belay there.

P2. Climb up a few meters into the "Book of Numbers" corner, and clip an old manky KB with a long sling, then break left around the corner (5.10, S-) as for the 3rd pitch of "Exodus." This is on OK rock, and the holds around the corner are there but not obvious at first. It requires some commitment on dubious gear. From there, Exodus goes up and right to the 3rd belay of "Book of Numbers," but the target has changed. Looking up and slightly left you will see a huge slot above a long, low-angle, right-leaning dihedral, which is the top pitch of the route "Sidetrack." Aim upward and only slightly left on mostly moderate terrain with a few 5.8' moves thrown in for good measure. This is on buckets, but it has very little gear. You will come to a finger crack maybe 10 meters down and just right of the right hand edge of the bottom of the slot. Protect this! The finger crack splits into a "V"-shaped crack, with both sides being like an undercling flake and with excellent jams. Protect this with 1" (+/-) cams and do the crux of this pitch (5.10) to move up and left and onto the belay in the huge slot (good natural pro) or finish by climbing up the slot as for Sidetrack and finish on the Juniper Ledge.

This route is a new pitch added onto an already classic pitch-and-a-half. The climbing is 3*s when you add it all up, but this pitch is only a 2* pitch.

I looked for any line that might be historically similar and failed to find it. As well, larger holds on this route were not showing signs of passage as I crushed and brushed deep tufts of lichen from them, and crux pro required some crack-cleaning (removing pebbles and chips) to put in gear that one would certainly want. These factors and the complete absence of any sign of nailing in an area otherwise filled with tons of fixed pins and scars indicated to me the probability of a first ascent.

Protection

Rack as for P1 of Genesis/Exodus, and then a standard light rack for P2 with gear to 3". The crux is the crux of Exodus, which is bolted, but there are additional key pieces of gear at the 1" range that will protect 5.10 moves after considerable runouts.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
I'm not sure I understand the comment above. It seems to suggest crowding or lack of novelty. However, the line described here is at least 10 meters at any given time from any other line for nearly it's entire length, and it is a full pitch long. Sep 29, 2005
No longer a climb between the lines, but a climb along the lines. Another true Eldo classic? Sep 28, 2005