Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob Boucher and Bob Sandafer, 1962, FFA: Christian Griffith, 1985
Page Views: 2,374 total · 20/month
Shared By: bhoran Horan on Jan 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climbs the micro-thin vertical slab past two bolts and a pin, moving eventually left to the first belay station on Country Club Crack.

Location

Located on the Castle Rock's east face's far left side, right and around the corner from Country Club Crack's first pitch. Climbs the micro-thin vertical slab past two bolts and a pin, moving eventually left to the first belay station on Country Club Crack.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

This is an awesome little route deserving of more attention. Similar in style, albeit much harder, to the "first" pitch of CCC.

I'm not sure if it has lost holds since the FFA, but it's definitely 5.13 in its current state. I'd call the opening boulder V8 or V9. It involves a tricky stab to a mono and then a creative gaston/thumb catch. This sequence will be very hard for the short.

The upper half of the pitch consists of fun 5.12 finger crack climbing. Bring a single set to 0.75 and a few small wires for the crack portion. Move right (not left) at the top of the crack to an anchor on Radio Armada.

It would be easy to work the opening boulder problem on toprope from the anchor atop "pitch one" of CCC with a few directionals. Nov 13, 2016
This used to be a fun little pitch of aid back in the day. I'd like to add a shout out to Bob Sandefer who was my instructor back in 1971 when I took the Colorado Mountain Club climbing class. This is the only route I know of with his name on it, but he climbed many obscure routes back in the '60s without recording them. Bob had a prodigious knowledge of little known (at the time) climbing areas and left only an occasional fixed pin in the cracks to remind us of his many ascents. Jan 12, 2017
Todd Ritter
Lafayette
 
Todd Ritter   Lafayette
 
Followed the late, great Jack Mileski with hangs! Fairly obscure on an awesome rock. Apr 16, 2018