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Avg: 3.9 from 12
FA: Christian Griffith
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - S Buttress
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This classic route is in dire need of an upgrade. It climbs right to left across the very smooth, very overhanging wall left of the crux (2nd) pitch of C'est La Vie and features bouldery moves on flat to sloping edges and a crux finish on an overhanging arete.
After waiting ten years to try the route, my fat ass pulled off a huge key flake right at the fourth bolt yesterday. Sincere apologies to the climbing community!
There may be some holds left, but they definitely need cleaning, if not a little glue (there was a little glue on the flake, but obviously not enough). The old Mammut ring bolts on this route could use replacing as well. They look pretty sketchy and rusty. It didn't look like anyone had been on the route in a long time.
Anyway, from the belay at the base of the 2nd pitch of C'est La Vie fire up the blank corner past a funky pin, placing a couple of RPs for safety's sake (11a). Reach a good finger lock (a stopper or TCUs goes in nicely here -- use a long sling) and lean waaayyyy left to clip the crispy fixed draw on the first bolt. Continue left via strenuous moves past more crispy draws, then move up past a curious hueco above the fourth bolt.
You'll need some trad gear for the first pitch of C'est La Vie, which takes you to the bolted belay below Desdichado. To get to Desdichado's bolts you'll also have to do the crux (desperate) of C'est La Vie. Bring RPs, a long sling and a couple of mid-ranged stoppers for the crux corner.