Suggested Page Improvements to Desdichado

Desdichado is the spectacular rising traverse that follows a weakness through the beautiful overhung wall on the left side of the C’est La Vie dihedral. This historically significant classic involves some wild moves and really fun climbing.

The following is an excerpt from the book “Climb! The History Of Rock Climbing in Colorado” by Jeff Achey and Dudley Chelton.

“(Throughout the 1980’s) Griffith produced a steady stream of climbs, the most famous of which was the center stage of Eldorado Canyon, spanning the overhanging wall of the C’est La Vie dihedral… The climbing was like bouldering at its best, with iron-cross moves, heel-hooking, and wild dynamics. When complete, Desdichado proved to be exactly what Griffith had sought. At 13c, or French 8a+, it was Boulder’s hardest free climb. The name derives from the 19th century Sir Walter Scott novel Ivanhoe, which Griffith thought reflected his role in Boulder climbing. In Scotts novel, the son of a Saxon nobleman is renounced by his family as he rides off to fight for Richard the Lionhearted. The son later returns incognito, dressed as a black night, and finds the Normans have subjugated his people. A jousting match is in progress. The mysterious black knight makes a late, surprise entry, defeats the arrogant Normans, and then rides away. His shield bears an emblem of an uprooted oak, and below, the Spanish word desdichado, the disinherited.” (page 206)

In the early 2000’s, a key flake broke off near the 4th bolt, adding some difficult moves (cool moves though!) and bumping the grade to 13+. All the remaining holds feel solid. The old Mammut ring bolts look a bit sketchy, however they do the job. Another thing to note is the lack of good anchors. There is an old anchor a ways up the slab, but it is not very useful, making for an obligatory victory whip (or untie and solo off like Christian did). This route will eventually (or soon) need an upgrade.

Approach via C’est a Vie, Pansee Sauvage, or Le Boomerang. The route begins at the bolt anchor at the base of the open book. Follow C’est La Vie to just below (or after) the crux and break left via lots of fun moves on sloping edges past 4 bolts (fixed draws) to a tricky finish on the overhanging arete. As far as 13+’s go, the moves are not very hard, but it is very sustained.

This is an amazing and classic route, have fun!

Desdichado is the spectacular rising traverse that follows a weakness through the beautiful overhung wall on the left side of the C’est La Vie dihedral. This historically significant classic involves some wild moves and really fun climbing.

In the early 2000’s, a key flake broke off near the 4th bolt, adding some difficult moves (cool moves though!) and bumping the grade to 13+. All the remaining holds feel solid. The old Mammut ring bolts look a bit sketchy, however they do the job. Another thing to note is the lack of good anchors. There is an old anchor a ways up the slab, but it is not very useful, making for an obligatory victory whip (or untie and solo off like Christian did). This route will eventually (or soon) need an upgrade.

Approach via C’est a Vie, Pansee Sauvage, or Le Boomerang. The route begins at the bolt anchor at the base of the open book. Follow C’est La Vie to just below (or after) the crux and break left via lots of fun moves on sloping edges past 4 bolts (fixed draws) to a tricky finish on the overhanging arete. As far as 13+’s go, the moves are not very hard, but it is very sustained.

This is an amazing and classic route, have fun!

From CLIMB! 2002: Griffith bolted his new line in 1986, first on lead from hooks, then finishing on rappel. The subsequent effort to free climb the route was impressive but personal: uninteresting to describe, composed of many visits, flashes of explosive movement, minor experiments and discoveries, construction of muscle memory, and subtle shifts of mind leading from hope to determination and eventually to sue-cess. The climbing was like bouldering at its best, with iron-cross moves, heel-hooking, and wild dynamics. When complete, Desdichado proved to be exactly what Griffith had sought. At 5.13c, or French Sat, it was Boulder's hardest free climb. Better yet, it was the antithesis of Tourist Extravagance—not the stale leftovers of a past ethic, but something altogether new, fantastic and powerful, in a commanding position in Eldorado Canyon.

The name derives from Sir Walter Scott's nineteenth-century novel luanhoe, which Griffith thought reflected his role in Boulder climbing. In Scott's novel, the son of a Saxon nobleman is renounced by his family as he rides off to fight for Richard the Lionhearted. The son later returns incognito, dressed as a black knight, and finds that the Normans have subjugated his people. A jousting match is in progress. The mysterious black knight makes a late, surprise entry, defeats the arrogant Normans, and then rides away. His shield bears an emblem of an uprooted oak, and below, the Spanish word desdichado, "the disinherited”.