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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Puppies on Edge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell, Andy Morcillino Sept. 17, 1990
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 2, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    With plentiful gear opportunities, sound rock quality and exciting moves, Puppies on Edge is one of the most accessible and enjoyable routes at the grade (and there aren't many!) at Poke-O.

    POE starts up the large left-facing corner, then breaks diagonally right across the face to the arete. Continue up, then around the arete to the lower-angled face above. Finish at the fixed anchor on the comfortable ledge.


    Location 

    On the far left end of Poke-O at a massive left-facing corner.


    Protection 

    A single rack up to a red Camalot, plus some quickdraws is all that is needed.



    Comments on Puppies on Edge Add Comment
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    By Simon Thompson
    From: New Paltz, NY
    Nov 8, 2011
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

    Although the fun crux moves are short-lived, this is a worthwhile climb. As Chris mentioned, it is one of very few easy climbs at the cliff. A fun alternative if you don't have the balls to hop on Gamesmanship or Fastest Gun, which is why I climbed it.

    By Mike McLean
    Jul 9, 2012
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

    I just boldly gave this a 5.5. I've been climbing a LOT of the easy climbs in the Dacks for the last 2 seasons and I can't possibly say that this is on the same level as, for example, CWI. It is much easier. Another comparison; I would put the the third pitch of Catharsis (5.5) at about as hard (if not harder).

    The traverse (which is the crux), is by no means difficult; but it's friggin fun! I would have taken 50 feet more of that!

    The first bolt is placed perfectly. Exactly where you'd want it.