Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
With plentiful gear opportunities, sound rock quality and exciting moves, Puppies on Edge is one of the most accessible and enjoyable routes at the grade (and there aren't many!) at Poke-O.
POE starts up the large left-facing corner, then breaks diagonally right across the face to the arete. Continue up, then around the arete to the lower-angled face above. Finish at the fixed anchor on the comfortable ledge.
On the far left end of Poke-O at a massive left-facing corner.
A single rack up to a red Camalot, plus some quickdraws is all that is needed.
By Simon Thompson From: New Paltz, NY Nov 8, 2011 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
Although the fun crux moves are short-lived, this is a worthwhile climb. As Chris mentioned, it is one of very few easy climbs at the cliff. A fun alternative if you don't have the balls to hop on Gamesmanship or Fastest Gun, which is why I climbed it.
I just boldly gave this a 5.5. I've been climbing a LOT of the easy climbs in the Dacks for the last 2 seasons and I can't possibly say that this is on the same level as, for example, CWI. It is much easier. Another comparison; I would put the the third pitch of Catharsis (5.5) at about as hard (if not harder).
The traverse (which is the crux), is by no means difficult; but it's friggin fun! I would have taken 50 feet more of that!
The first bolt is placed perfectly. Exactly where you'd want it.