Type: Trad, 420 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Geoff Smith, Dave Hough Sept. '76
Page Views: 1,017 total · 23/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on May 25, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

The first 5.10 at Poke-O and a classic climb. Combining a long technical traverse with a discontinuous vertical crack.

Start by climbing The Snake(5.4). Walk to the far right of the ledge (careful some easy exposed moves) to a bolted anchor.

P1: 5.10b G 130'
A long technical traverse right. Follow the dike past a poison ivy bush to a first set of anchors [Deuteronomy 5.11b]. Keep going right until you see two bolts rising up and right to the upper dike [crux]. Once at the good holds of the upper dike move right to a somewhat thrilling section [small gear]. Pass another bolt before finally reaching the bolted rap anchor. The line of bolts above are for [No Higher Authority 5.11d G 110'].
Rappel from here with doubles to the ground or with a single rope to the top anchors of The Howling (climbers left).

P2: 5.10a PG (5.7 X) 150'
Head out right to a left side of a large, detached and flexing flake. Climb up (5.7 X) to the top to find an old rusted 1/4" bolt. (There is gear everywhere but the flake is highly suspect. Especially in the middle.) Gain a shallow discontinuous crack and follow it to the top, where you'll find bolted rap anchors.
Most parties rap from here. A single 70m rope gets you to the P1 anchors... Just barely. Tie knots!!!

P3: 5.6 R 140'
Continue up the crack, then left along a slab to the final exit corner.

Walk off left to descent gully.

Location

Far right side of the Snake ledge.

Protection

Single rack up to #3 Camalot. A medium size RP & C3 are useful for last section of the traverse.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
Freedom Flight -- there's a large crop of poison ivy about halfway across the traverse. There are no cracks above or below the patch, so it's impossible to keep the ropes out of it. Good luck! Aug 5, 2010
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10b
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.10b
I put the ratings that are found in the ADK Rock guidebook but mine tend to differ slightly.
The traverse felt harder than 10b at the crux, possibly because both my partner and I took the wrong sequence of holds. Still, we both chose that same particular line. The gear was good mostly but a few sections felt like there was a chance of a good long pendulum. Especially before the very last bolt, where a fall would land you on some small gear. 5.10 c/d PG-13.
The second pitch had great gear aside from the flake 5.10a G (5.7 X) May 25, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
 
I think this is one of Poke-O's great lines. The difficult bits are quite well-protected, but there's definitely some spice in the easier sections. May 26, 2015
Totally agree, Jim. What a great route. I just hope that poison ivy bush on the traverse isn't still there. It looked mighty healthy last time I climbed that pitch (a few years ago now), and it was essentially impossible to keep the rope out of it... May 27, 2015
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10b
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.10b
It's still there. I'm highly allergic but somehow managed not to get it. Has anyone ever gone up there with a shovel and cleaned the ledge? May 27, 2015
Jim Lawyer    
 
...or some RoundUp? May 28, 2015
A good link-up is the Piller for P1, then from the top of the piller climb Deuteronomy into the traverse of Freedom Flight. You get the some hard face climbing on Deuteronomy and then still get the crux of the traverse on Freedom Flights P2. Aug 22, 2016