Type: Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 3 pitches
FA: Geoff Smith, Dave Hough Sept. '76
Page Views: 2,525 total · 24/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on May 25, 2015
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

10 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The first 5.10 at Poke-O and a classic climb. Combining a long technical traverse with a discontinuous vertical crack.

Start by climbing The Snake(5.4). Walk to the far right of the ledge (careful some easy exposed moves) to a bolted anchor.

P1: 5.10b G 130'
A long technical traverse right. Follow the dike past a poison ivy bush to a first set of anchors [Deuteronomy 5.11b]. Keep going right until you see two bolts rising up and right to the upper dike [crux]. Once at the good holds of the upper dike move right to a somewhat thrilling section [small gear]. Pass another bolt before finally reaching the bolted rap anchor. The line of bolts above are for [No Higher Authority 5.11d G 110'].
Rappel from here with doubles to the ground or with a single rope to the top anchors of The Howling (climbers left).

P2: 5.10a PG (5.7 X) 150'
Head out right to a left side of a large, detached and flexing flake. Climb up (5.7 X) to the top to find an old rusted 1/4" bolt. (There is gear everywhere but the flake is highly suspect. Especially in the middle.) Gain a shallow discontinuous crack and follow it to the top, where you'll find bolted rap anchors.
Most parties rap from here. A single 70m rope gets you to the P1 anchors... Just barely. Tie knots!!!

P3: 5.6 R 140'
Continue up the crack, then left along a slab to the final exit corner.

Walk off left to descent gully.

Location Suggest change

Far right side of the Snake ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack up to #3 Camalot. A medium size RP & C3 are useful for last section of the traverse.