Type: Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 3 pitches
FA: Geoff Smith, Dave Hough Sept. '76
Page Views: 1,681 total · 26/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on May 25, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

The first 5.10 at Poke-O and a classic climb. Combining a long technical traverse with a discontinuous vertical crack.

Start by climbing The Snake(5.4). Walk to the far right of the ledge (careful some easy exposed moves) to a bolted anchor.

P1: 5.10b G 130'
A long technical traverse right. Follow the dike past a poison ivy bush to a first set of anchors [Deuteronomy 5.11b]. Keep going right until you see two bolts rising up and right to the upper dike [crux]. Once at the good holds of the upper dike move right to a somewhat thrilling section [small gear]. Pass another bolt before finally reaching the bolted rap anchor. The line of bolts above are for [No Higher Authority 5.11d G 110'].
Rappel from here with doubles to the ground or with a single rope to the top anchors of The Howling (climbers left).

P2: 5.10a PG (5.7 X) 150'
Head out right to a left side of a large, detached and flexing flake. Climb up (5.7 X) to the top to find an old rusted 1/4" bolt. (There is gear everywhere but the flake is highly suspect. Especially in the middle.) Gain a shallow discontinuous crack and follow it to the top, where you'll find bolted rap anchors.
Most parties rap from here. A single 70m rope gets you to the P1 anchors... Just barely. Tie knots!!!

P3: 5.6 R 140'
Continue up the crack, then left along a slab to the final exit corner.

Walk off left to descent gully.

Location

Far right side of the Snake ledge.

Protection

Single rack up to #3 Camalot. A medium size RP & C3 are useful for last section of the traverse.

Photos