Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,160 total · 11/month
Shared By: David Kider on Jul 28, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Slightly difficult start on black-stained rock. Several options to the left and possibly the right to gain the slab up to the first bolt. Walk the slab up to the second bolt not far away. From there the climb goes more vertical again, yet still slabby. A couple of enjoyable delicate moves bring you up to the anchors.

Location

At the far right of the Luther Wall on the highest bit of land.

Protection

A few cams are useful to protect the opening moves. From there you'll find a bolt, another bolt, room for maybe one more piece of gear and then the chains.

Photos

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Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
I dunno, I just got on this route on 8/21/2010. I just lead Certified Raw so I was warmed up. This is no 5.5. The opening sequence is burly and requires significant smears. And once established above the opening moves, it's still quite tenuous. The slab moves are very thin. And the final moves up the head wall are also stout.

The vegetation at the base testifies to few if any recent ascents. No wonder.
5.8 easily, and the case could be made for 5.9. Try it and see. Aug 22, 2010
Janine Connell
5.8+ PG13
Janine Connell  
5.8+ PG13
I agree with Jeff. I just tried to lead this route. I had just successfully lead Ladder (5.7) and followed Fastest Gun and thought this would be an easy end of the trip. I got shut down on the first move and then toproped it. I am glad I did - the slab seemed just as difficult and the bolts are very run out. In fact, if you are short, there is a tricky move to get to the third bolt and you are easily looking at a 30 footer if you miss it. In my opinion, this is not a good climb for those new to leading and is certainly no 5.5. I'd go with 5.8/5.9. Aug 23, 2010
5.8 seems about right for the opening move. After that it's probably 5.5-5.6 slab climbing. The last move to the anchors is a little bit sketchy, but protected by a nice bolt placement. Overall a fun climb, and one of my first trad leads. If you're a pretty confident climber, this is fine for a starter lead. However, if you fall near the second or third bolt, you're going for quite a ride. Make sure you place a piece in the crack at the opening move - it will absolutely protect you from falling into the picker bushes right under the ledge. Jul 5, 2012
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.7
Gary Jones   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.7
Stiff 5.5. Deff. no 5.5. With that said great climbing really enjoyed the route. Aug 3, 2012