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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,105 total · 11/month
Shared By: David Kider on Jul 28, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Slightly difficult start on black-stained rock. Several options to the left and possibly the right to gain the slab up to the first bolt. Walk the slab up to the second bolt not far away. From there the climb goes more vertical again, yet still slabby. A couple of enjoyable delicate moves bring you up to the anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

At the far right of the Luther Wall on the highest bit of land.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A few cams are useful to protect the opening moves. From there you'll find a bolt, another bolt, room for maybe one more piece of gear and then the chains.

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Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
I dunno, I just got on this route on 8/21/2010. I just lead Certified Raw so I was warmed up. This is no 5.5. The opening sequence is burly and requires significant smears. And once established above the opening moves, it's still quite tenuous. The slab moves are very thin. And the final moves up the head wall are also stout.

The vegetation at the base testifies to few if any recent ascents. No wonder.
5.8 easily, and the case could be made for 5.9. Try it and see. Aug 22, 2010
Janine Connell
5.8+ PG13
Janine Connell  
5.8+ PG13
I agree with Jeff. I just tried to lead this route. I had just successfully lead Ladder (5.7) and followed Fastest Gun and thought this would be an easy end of the trip. I got shut down on the first move and then toproped it. I am glad I did - the slab seemed just as difficult and the bolts are very run out. In fact, if you are short, there is a tricky move to get to the third bolt and you are easily looking at a 30 footer if you miss it. In my opinion, this is not a good climb for those new to leading and is certainly no 5.5. I'd go with 5.8/5.9. Aug 23, 2010
5.8 seems about right for the opening move. After that it's probably 5.5-5.6 slab climbing. The last move to the anchors is a little bit sketchy, but protected by a nice bolt placement. Overall a fun climb, and one of my first trad leads. If you're a pretty confident climber, this is fine for a starter lead. However, if you fall near the second or third bolt, you're going for quite a ride. Make sure you place a piece in the crack at the opening move - it will absolutely protect you from falling into the picker bushes right under the ledge. Jul 5, 2012
Gary Jones
  5.7
Gary Jones  
  5.7
Stiff 5.5. Deff. no 5.5. With that said great climbing really enjoyed the route. Aug 3, 2012

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