Avg: 3.8 from 78 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||John Turner, Dick Strachan, and Dick Wilmott 1959|
|Page Views:||11,752 total · 76/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2007|
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
As you climb, remind yourself that for 15 years, this route stood as the hardest climb in the Adirondacks.
Begin roughly 100 feet to the right and uphill from Gamesmanship, and roughly 100 feet to the left of The Fastest Gun. Spot the curving dihedral high on the route (the 2nd pitch), this is what you are aiming for.
Climb the broken corner and hand cracks to the left of the corner to a nice belay ledge below the massive, curving dihedral.(Note: You need to build an anchor here). (5.6 / 40 feet)
The gem of the route. Climb off the belay ledge and into the dihedral. Continue up the sustained corner until you reach a welcomed rest mid-pitch. Aim for the small, left-facing corner. Gain this and climb it with similar difficulty to a semi-hanging belay at chains. (5.9+ / 110 feet)
(NOTE: MOST PARTIES RAP FROM THE TOP OF THE 2ND PITCHES THE UPPER PITCHES ARE RATHER DIRTY AND LOOSE!!)
If you want to continue...climb the tight dihedral until easier rock is reached. Belay here at another small ledge. (5.8 / 80 feet)
Pitches 4, 5, and 6
Scramble over some loose, dirty rock to gain the upper pitches of Gamesmanship (5.7 PG/R), or continue out right to meet up with The Fastest Gun (5.10).
If you plan to go to the top of the cliff. Use the same rap station as Gamesmanship or The Fastest Gun. Both require two 60 meter ropes for rappelling.