Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA Pat Munn and Dave Hough, 7/75 FFA Gary Allan, Tom Schwarm, and Dave Hough
Page Views: 2,633 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007 with updates from Luc-514
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Big, mean, and foreboding--Phase III delivers the goods in one nasty pitch of body-thrutching hatred. Put on your ratty dungarees, tape up, and send.

Phase III begins to the right of Son of a Mother in the obvious off-width crack, and continues for 90 feet in the same crack. The crux comes--like many routes on this cliff--at about 2/3 height. It involves moving through an overhanging corner sans discernible feet.

Finish up easier terrain to chain anchors.

Mother's Day Variation (5.9+, PG): Once at the first roof, Climb through the roof via the right-facing flake and continue up the flake of "Son of a Mother."

Location

The left side of the cliff. At the height of the climbers trail, go left about 100 yards and locate the obvious offwidth of Phase 3.

Protection

A nice size rack with several #2, #3, and #4 Camalots.

Photos

Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.9+
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.9+
This is a really cool route (if you enjoy OW). A little OW technique will keep you from grunting too much. Oct 22, 2010
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.9+
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.9+
A rack from .3-#1 C4 size plus double BD 3s and a BD 3.5 worked pretty well for me on this. The second roof and the corner leading up to it is really a 3.5 size crack. 3 is just a little wide and I think a 4 would be hard to fit in. Double 3.5 would have been ideal.

I feel like it's more a wide-hands to fist crack at the crux than off-width? Jul 10, 2011
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.9+
Greg,

I agree about it being wide hands rather than off-width. I'm going to be over there a couple days this week, so I'll have to get back on it to see which way I quiver my way up it! Jul 10, 2011
Jim Lawyer    
 
To me, off-width means "larger than fists". If you have small hands, then this qualifies. Otherwise, it's "off-hands", meaning cups or fists. Whatever -- it's splitting hairs. Suffice to say that it's an awkward size and protects well with 3" - 4" cams. Jul 12, 2011
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
This climb is a sick exercise of strenuous & insecure lay-backs and fist-jams. No OW section to be found anywhere on it. 3 #4's and 2 #3 camelots help. Jul 8, 2012
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
  5.9+
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
  5.9+
I found I needed a lot of #3 camalots for the crux section, #4s would immediately get overcammed and there was a jammed #4 camalot. The end didn't protect well after the crux from what I remember, plus being so pumped, it was scary. My fist fit well sideways, thumbs down and twisting. Really cool route, a bit scary had I known I would need to slide my #3 up with me as I climbed :s Oct 21, 2013
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Awesome off hands/large fist splitter corner. As mentioned, no true off width moves. Deserves more stars and more traffic. The old BD 3.5 cam would probably be the best fit. I imagine this would be a cruise if you have large hands! I was surprised by how aesthetic and classic this pitch was! May 6, 2016