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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough
Page Views: 1,198 total, 16/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Sep 4, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

This pillar has a fun route on either side of the it. Both routes are about the same difficulty, though I think the route on the right side is slightly harder and more sustained.

Right side: Climb into crack in the corner and follow it up to the top(hands and offwidth.) The crack features satisfying jams and can also be lie-backed. I found the crux to be near the middle of the pillar, though the route is fairly sustained until the top 10 feet.

Left side: Climb on the left side of the pillar, using the crack in the corner in combination with good ledges and jugs further to the left. The difficult moves are broken by rests on big holds.

Location

Walk downhill and to climbers' right of the Discord Area, past the start of The Snake, and past a vegetated section of the cliff, you sill see a broken pillar leaning against the cliff. The routes are on either side of this.

Protection

There is a fixed anchor on top. Be aware of what the rope is running over if you choose to TR the pillar.

Right side: Protection is readily available but consider saving a BD#4 for the crux or bringing an extra.

Left side: Protection is a little more sparse on this side but all the difficult moves are well-protected.

Photos

Tim Dufrane  
 
Right side is wonderful, and warrants more attention than it gets. Awesome laybacks, a couple mentally taxing sections (if you don't have as much gear as you need), and just an all-around great sustained climb.

Make sure you bring plenty of #3s/big hexes. I ran out of big gear when getting into the nice layback section and ran it out 20', then could finally place a #2. Very secure climbing, but still sketchy if you don't know what you're getting into. Careful on the topout, the right side has a couple jutting rocks which seem like they could break loose. This could potentially result in a severed rope because of the belayer's position to the climb.

Highly recommended if you're looking for a fairly relaxed crack climb and are a confident 5.8 leader.

Left side is fine, has one or two interesting moves but also a couple suspect flakes. Not nearly as fun as the right side. Aug 8, 2017
Jesse Bryant
Jackson, Wyoming
 
Jesse Bryant   Jackson, Wyoming
 
I'd like to point out that the right side was notably more difficult with notably less good gear than the left...Right side felt like 5.7+/5.8-, while the left felt, to me, like 5.6+/5.7-...The crack on the right takes a consistent #3-#4 to nearly the top of the climb. Bring doubles of those, or just climb the left side. Nov 8, 2016
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
  5.9
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
  5.9
Perhaps I'm a newbie, but I very much enjoyed this climb. Maybe because I find it aesthetic and simply cool. Very hard for 5.7 though. Oct 17, 2013
garyjutah Jones  
  5.7
The lookers right side is much better then the left side. Aug 3, 2012
Mike McLean
  5.7
Mike McLean  
  5.7
For some reason, Adirondack Rock gives this a single star. IMHO, it is FAR better than that (at least the right side -- this may be the first time I disagree with a AR star rating). As far as I'm concerned, if P1 of Ladder merits 2 stars, this one goes at 4 :)

That being said, I've just started at this grade so I don't have tons of comparison points.

GEAR BETA: For chickens like me, you can easily stitch this thing as long as you have big gear. Being the third person in my group to lead it, I knew that I could easily place 3 #4, 2 #5 and 2 #2 ... which I did :|

The climber who lead it just before me got away with much less big gear by using the right hand side a bit more than I did. Jul 16, 2012