Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough
Page Views: 1,790 total · 16/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Sep 4, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

This pillar has a fun route on either side of the it. Both routes are about the same difficulty, though I think the route on the right side is slightly harder and more sustained.

Right side: Climb into crack in the corner and follow it up to the top(hands and offwidth.) The crack features satisfying jams and can also be lie-backed. I found the crux to be near the middle of the pillar, though the route is fairly sustained until the top 10 feet.

Left side: Climb on the left side of the pillar, using the crack in the corner in combination with good ledges and jugs further to the left. The difficult moves are broken by rests on big holds.

Location

Walk downhill and to climbers' right of the Discord Area, past the start of The Snake, and past a vegetated section of the cliff, you sill see a broken pillar leaning against the cliff. The routes are on either side of this.

Protection

There is a fixed anchor on top. Be aware of what the rope is running over if you choose to TR the pillar.

Right side: Protection is readily available but consider saving a BD#4 for the crux or bringing an extra.

Left side: Protection is a little more sparse on this side but all the difficult moves are well-protected.

Photos