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> Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Pillar
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 16 votes
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R | |
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0 | |
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 | |
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
FA: | Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough |
Page Views: | 1,198 total, 16/month |
Shared By: | Simon Thompson on Sep 4, 2011 |
Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
This pillar has a fun route on either side of the it. Both routes are about the same difficulty, though I think the route on the right side is slightly harder and more sustained.Right side: Climb into crack in the corner and follow it up to the top(hands and offwidth.) The crack features satisfying jams and can also be lie-backed. I found the crux to be near the middle of the pillar, though the route is fairly sustained until the top 10 feet.
Left side: Climb on the left side of the pillar, using the crack in the corner in combination with good ledges and jugs further to the left. The difficult moves are broken by rests on big holds.
Location
Walk downhill and to climbers' right of the Discord Area, past the start of The Snake, and past a vegetated section of the cliff, you sill see a broken pillar leaning against the cliff. The routes are on either side of this.Protection
There is a fixed anchor on top. Be aware of what the rope is running over if you choose to TR the pillar.Right side: Protection is readily available but consider saving a BD#4 for the crux or bringing an extra.
Left side: Protection is a little more sparse on this side but all the difficult moves are well-protected.
Photos
5 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Make sure you bring plenty of #3s/big hexes. I ran out of big gear when getting into the nice layback section and ran it out 20', then could finally place a #2. Very secure climbing, but still sketchy if you don't know what you're getting into. Careful on the topout, the right side has a couple jutting rocks which seem like they could break loose. This could potentially result in a severed rope because of the belayer's position to the climb.
Highly recommended if you're looking for a fairly relaxed crack climb and are a confident 5.8 leader.
Left side is fine, has one or two interesting moves but also a couple suspect flakes. Not nearly as fun as the right side. Aug 8, 2017
Jackson, Wyoming
Montreal, Quebec
That being said, I've just started at this grade so I don't have tons of comparison points.
GEAR BETA: For chickens like me, you can easily stitch this thing as long as you have big gear. Being the third person in my group to lead it, I knew that I could easily place 3 #4, 2 #5 and 2 #2 ... which I did :|
The climber who lead it just before me got away with much less big gear by using the right hand side a bit more than I did. Jul 16, 2012