Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,251 total · 12/month
Shared By: David Kider on Jul 28, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Starts on top of a sloping boulder and goes straight up a shallow corner for about 60 feet to a ledge with a weak tree on it. A few stemming moves about half way up this section help the ascent. Move left at the ledge and then look up to find a shallow and short chimney with a nice crack for your right hand. There's an old piece of pro lodged at the top of the chimney. One last move gets you up on a slab where the anchors await.

Location

From the trailhead/road find the signs to the right for climbers. Follow the trail just behind the sign for about 50-100 yards over a gentle hill to the cliff. Go right and see the slabby boulder rising up to meet the cliff. Climb starts on top of this.

The Adirondack Rock book places this climb as part of the Luther Wall.

Protection

The crack in the corner takes small gear, especially nuts. The tree 60' up can take a sling. Small gear for the crack in the upper chimney.

Photos

BenjiDa  
Belayers Beware! A nice size flake of rock is ready and waiting to pop off, just past the tree, directly above the belay spot. I did not use this flake for feet cause it seemed so fragile. Oct 6, 2013
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.7
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.7
Loose flake is still there (2015-06-27) Jun 28, 2015
Sam Fox
Burlington, VT
  5.7+
Sam Fox   Burlington, VT
  5.7+
Loose flake is heinous and also the block just beneath the tree is hollow and it’s really tempting to place beneath it. Stout when wet. Sep 23, 2018