All Locations >
New York
> Adirondacks
> A: Lake Champla…
> Poke-O-Moonshine
> Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Ladder
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 30 votes
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R | |
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0 | |
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 | |
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,829 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | David Kider on Jul 28, 2010 |
Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
Starts on top of a sloping boulder and goes straight up a shallow corner for about 60 feet to a ledge with a weak tree on it. A few stemming moves about half way up this section help the ascent. Move left at the ledge and then look up to find a shallow and short chimney with a nice crack for your right hand. There's an old piece of pro lodged at the top of the chimney. One last move gets you up on a slab where the anchors await.
Location
From the trailhead/road find the signs to the right for climbers. Follow the trail just behind the sign for about 50-100 yards over a gentle hill to the cliff. Go right and see the slabby boulder rising up to meet the cliff. Climb starts on top of this.
The Adirondack Rock book places this climb as part of the Luther Wall.
The Adirondack Rock book places this climb as part of the Luther Wall.
4 Comments