Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Julien Dery, 1987
Page Views: 1,583 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 29, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

Scramble to the top of the block. Climb up from the anchor past three bolts, move left into a shallow corner (RPs), then up past four bolts moving left at the top to finish on Paralysis.

Primo balancey face climbing the whole way. Bolts are traditionally spaced.

Location

Poke-O-Moonshine, Paralysis Amphitheater.

Protection

7 bolts, small nuts and a few cams to 2" for the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.10c PG13
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.10c PG13
For a "G" rated climb i took a pretty big fall....well i let go because i was afraid of committing and taking a huge fall. it was where you kind of high step and shift left into the small corner...where the micronut goes....the fall was on a bolt but i really feel like it was long enough to call this PG....also that little nut is pretty crucial, although it protects the easiest moves on the face. all my whining aside, maestro is everything i ever wanted out of a thin, technical, crimpy face climb. if your into tiny edges on slightly less than vertical rock is doesn't get much better. its ten move after ten move until you join up with Paralysis. its hard to say where the crux is but ill go with where i jumped off. hats off to the guy with the French Canadian sounding name that did the FA, bolted on lead, dang. Nov 29, 2014
The route is PG for sure, and I thought it was harder than C-tips or Menace to Sobriety. Not a route that you want to climb in full sun, either. All that said, it's brilliant slab climbing. Dec 1, 2014
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10d
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10d
I'm in agreement with both of the above comments. This route isn't G by any stretch. I also think it is significantly harder than C-Tips and notably harder than Menace to Sobriety. May 8, 2015
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Finally got on this. It is good, and there is protection at the difficult sections when you need it. One or two RPs in the corner are nice. But in general the falls would be clean, so I think despite some spaced bolts it is a pretty safe route.

Granted it was a hot and humid day - but it felt pretty stiff for 5.10! Jul 12, 2015