Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dennis Luther, Fred Schaefer July 20, 2002
Page Views: 245 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Feb 26, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

This is a good route to do while waiting for some of the classics in the area to free up. It combines balancy moves with some so-so gear.

Begin in the flaired open book. Climb straight up, clip a bolt, then head out left a hair (short but thoughtful crux), gaining the broken slot that takes some good gear (the rock is a little hollow, though). Clear the small bulge, pulling onto the slab above. Continue up the easy slab above to the shared chain anchors for the adjacent two routes.

Location

At the height of the hiking trail that taken you to the far left end of the cliff, is a flaired open book/groove. This is the start.

Protection

Small gear, plus a #3.5 and a #2 Camalot for the broken slot.

Photos

M Hosmer
Potsdam, NY
M Hosmer   Potsdam, NY
Although a 3.5 could be used I would not call it necessary for those who do not have one. I get by just fine with a #2 and smaller finger pieces (.4 and .5 sized) Aug 22, 2013