Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: 1977--Geoff Smith, Patrick Munn
Page Views: 3,400 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 29, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

(I haven't heard of anyone doing the second pitch, so I've just described the increasingly popular 1st pitch.)

Start by either grappling with the awkward/slippery corner, or climb the face by bearhugging the arete and face holds. Gain the small, sloping ledge,make a few "heads up" moves to the left, accessing the right-facing corner, then take this, for about 70 feet, to the fixed anchor.

Enroute, you'll encounter some fairly loose and hollow sounding flakes. Take some precaution here, as some of these may be more brittle than you think!

Location Suggest change

About 50 to 60 feet right of the bottomless, right-facing corner of Scallion is a left-facing corner that turns into a short slab, then a right-facing corner. This is the route.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack with a couple extra hand-sized pieces. A 70 meter rope juuuuuust makes it to the ground.