Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 1977--Geoff Smith, Patrick Munn
Page Views: 2,015 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 29, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

(I haven't heard of anyone doing the second pitch, so I've just described the increasingly popular 1st pitch.)

Start by either grappling with the awkward/slippery corner, or climb the face by bearhugging the arete and face holds. Gain the small, sloping ledge,make a few "heads up" moves to the left, accessing the right-facing corner, then take this, for about 70 feet, to the fixed anchor.

Enroute, you'll encounter some fairly loose and hollow sounding flakes. Take some precaution here, as some of these may be more brittle than you think!

Location

About 50 to 60 feet right of the bottomless, right-facing corner of Scallion is a left-facing corner that turns into a short slab, then a right-facing corner. This is the route.

Protection

A standard rack with a couple extra hand-sized pieces. A 70 meter rope juuuuuust makes it to the ground.

Photos

Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.8
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.8
With rope stretch, you can get down with a 60 meter rope. Watch for the end of the rope though. May 25, 2010
Derek Doucet
  5.8
Derek Doucet  
  5.8
One of the nicest moderates on the cliff, but it seems to get little traffic. Looks poorly protected from below, but can be sewn up. The guidebook says the anchor atop P1 is left of the crack, which is incorrect. There is a good fixed anchor to the right of the crack. And to reiterate Jon's comment, a 60m JUST BARELY reaches. Jun 9, 2010
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9 PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9 PG13
For pitch 2 (5.9): Head up and right from the anchor to a short left-facing corner in the roof. Climb this steep section (crux) and a nice crack, then weave your way up runout and perennially wet slabs to the Calamine Ledge. Climbing after pulling the exciting crux is pretty bad, be very comfortable on runout and spoogy rock. Jan 16, 2012
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Don't be turned away by the appearance of this pitch from the ground. In typical Poke-O fashion the climbing holds are clean despite a "dirty" appearance. In fact, do a few laps on it to clean it up some more. Very enjoyable climbing. May 28, 2015