The Rapture

Name: The Rapture
Rating: 2.2

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
	Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
	Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Type:	Trad, 80 ft
FA:	Dominic Eisinger, Patrick Munn--2002
Page Views:	892 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Chris Duca on Aug 16, 2009
Admins:	Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.

Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.

Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.

Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.

In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.

Description

A fingertip-ripping pitch of technical face climbing.

Though somewhat marred by its proximity to the first pitch of Pilgrim's Progress, The Rapture is an amazing test of footwork, finger strength and route finding.

Tic-Tac your way up the face immediately to the left of Pilgrim's Progress until it is possible to reach the fractured crack system shared with the last 15 feet of Mayflower.

Though I have not led this yet, this will most definitely be a safe lead.

Location

Immediately to the left of the first pitch of Pilgrim's Progress.

Protection

6 bolts and a few pieces of small gear (blue to orange TCUs, plus a small rack of nuts).

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Rhiannon Kim on The Rapture.

One of the many cruxy sections.

1 Comment

Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON

5.12a/b

Colin Rickert Ottawa, ON

5.12a/b

I think the guidebook calls this thing 11d which is kind of a joke if you ask me. Feels closer to 12b imo. One thing about this route is you really have to think about your feet and sequence on it or the moves feel near impossible. Beta is very tight and specific but the moves flow nicely once you do it. Also your tips will hurt a bit.... Oct 30, 2012

Beta: 0

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The Rapture