Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Aug, 1987, Gelu Ionescu, Pierre Gagnon
Page Views: 881 total · 8/month
Shared By: Derek Doucet on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

A superb pitch. Le Spirale climbs a striking blunt arete before changing character abruptly in the last 15' or so, where one encounters a brief section of thuggish (i.e, very fun) wide fist to hands. It is this combination of delicate face and steep crack that makes the pitch so good.

P1: Climb the arete and faces on either side, past 2 crux thin sections, before joining the Thunderhead crack system for a memorable finish. While the hard moves are well protected, some spicy climbing will be encountered on easier ground. There is 5.8ish climbing where a fall would be problematic.

Location

Start at the obvious black arete just left of the Thunderhead corner, and about 50' around the corner to the right from Green Onion.

Protection

Bolts and perhaps a handful of thin finger-sized cams and nuts. A #3 and a #4 Camalot will be welcome for the final few feet of steep crack climbing on Thunderhead.

Photos

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Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
Good description. One of the best 11- pitches at Poke-O, on a par w/ P2 Casual Observer in terms of quality.
Well named-get the timing right and you'll be weaving back and forth from sun to shade.
Well protected for the hard bits, I remember being happy to place a #3 tcu about 2/3 of the way up on the left side. May 29, 2016