Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|FA:||Gary Allan, Geoff Smith and Dave Hough, 1975|
|Page Views:||2,085 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007|
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Cosmo Wall is a long, intimidating route that enjoys the spoils of what Poko is famous (or should it that be IN-famous?) for: gear-gobbling cracks and airy, technical face climbing on less-than-vertical terrain.
Sounds like a recipe for a four-star route, right?
The route starts off the far left end of the Sting Traverse Ledge, essentially to the left of The Positive Thinking ice route. Follow some unprotected hands and feet (5.8 PG-13) up about 8 feet until you can get your first piece of gear. Continue up the crack system until a small roof with a dodgey pin below it forces you to use some foot-trickery to surmount it to the left.
Place some gear and continue up the pinching crack system until the fingers run out. Place some gear as high in the crack as you can, then embark on some spicy moves up to a left-facing flake. Place some units, then step up, gingerly, to the right to reach the first of two bolts.
Clip it, then finger traverse out left and up to the second bolt. Clip that one, then decide if you want to beach whale it over the bulge to the anchors or make some moves out left over semi-manky terrain to ultimately reach the belay ledge.
Either way, these last few moves are cruxy, so keep your wits about you.