Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Gary Allan, Geoff Smith and Dave Hough, 1975
Page Views: 2,085 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

You'll need a full quiver of trickery to complete this route with grace.

Cosmo Wall is a long, intimidating route that enjoys the spoils of what Poko is famous (or should it that be IN-famous?) for: gear-gobbling cracks and airy, technical face climbing on less-than-vertical terrain.

Sounds like a recipe for a four-star route, right?

The route starts off the far left end of the Sting Traverse Ledge, essentially to the left of The Positive Thinking ice route. Follow some unprotected hands and feet (5.8 PG-13) up about 8 feet until you can get your first piece of gear. Continue up the crack system until a small roof with a dodgey pin below it forces you to use some foot-trickery to surmount it to the left.

Place some gear and continue up the pinching crack system until the fingers run out. Place some gear as high in the crack as you can, then embark on some spicy moves up to a left-facing flake. Place some units, then step up, gingerly, to the right to reach the first of two bolts.

Clip it, then finger traverse out left and up to the second bolt. Clip that one, then decide if you want to beach whale it over the bulge to the anchors or make some moves out left over semi-manky terrain to ultimately reach the belay ledge.

Either way, these last few moves are cruxy, so keep your wits about you.

Location

On the left side of the Sting Traverse Ledge about 20 feet up is a double-bolt anchor. This is the start of the route.

Protection

A full rack with doubles on small to medium units. about 10 quick draws and double rope for the rappel.

Photos