Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough, 8/75
Page Views: 5,505 total · 40/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


88 Opinions

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

This is a stellar route! The Sting climbs an independent line immediately to the left of the beginning hand crack of Gamesmanship.

The climber has a choice to either begin the first 6 feet of Gamesmanship and step to the left trending crack of the Sting, or alternately and possibly a little harder, one can begin on small crimps directly below the beginning of the left-angling crack. Despite the chosen launching off point, you will encounter a tricky traverse followed by mitt-swallowing jams up a tremendous crack. You'll encounter a very brief off-hands section; however, a couple of #3 Camalots can help ease off-width-itis.

The route ends on the Sting Traverse Ledge at a bolted anchor threaded with some webbing and quick links. (Note: This anchor should be replaced!)

Location

100 feet to the right of the Positive Thinking clearing is a pair of cracks. The Sting is the lefthand crack that traverses out to the left.

Protection

A full rack with doubles from green to yellow Camalot sizes. An assortment of smaller gear with some RPs is welcomed.

Photos

Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
For an added bit of fun climbing, don't traverse left to the ledge/anchors. Keep heading up and traverse right across the face towards Gamesmanship, passing a flake with a fixed stopper. Finish on the last 20 feet of gamesmanship. We used a 70m rope to rap off the first pitch of Gamesmanship, but not sure if that was neccessary or not. Oct 12, 2009
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.8
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.8
There is a 5.9 start variation a few feet to the left of the shared start with Gamesmanship. Make a couple bouldery moves up the face to a few incut buckets and gain the traverse. This is a good way to start the route if there is a party on P1 of Gamesmanship. Aug 3, 2010
Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8+
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8+
I also recommend the 5.9 start. Fun moves. Aug 23, 2010
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.8
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.8
The Sting and Gamesmanship are maybe the two best 5.8s I've climbed in the park and it's just SO convenient that they are right next to each other. Nov 24, 2011
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
amazing climb. I've always dreamed of jamming fist after fist like in the movies. Aug 26, 2014
Continuing up the the first pitch anchors of Gamesmanship requires a 70m rope to rappel. I ended up at those anchors with a single 60m and had to do a short rappel to The Sting's anchors to make it back to the ground. Sep 14, 2015
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
My favorite pitch of 5.8 in the park, though quite tough in the grade. I find that gaining the large spike feature at the base of the splitter hand crack/end of the fingercrack is the crux. You can stop and relax in the middle of the finger traverse, it's not as bad as it looks from the ground. After all of that it's perfect hands/cupped hands to the top. Apr 26, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8
If you want to up the grade a bit more on the variation start to the left, do the beginning moves to the "bucket handhold horizontal crack" completely statically, i.e. no semi-dyno to the holds. I saw this done once beautifully. Jun 22, 2016