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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Certified Raw T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior Varsity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Karmic Kickback T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace To Sobriety S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
P.T. Pillar T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psalm 32 T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough, 8/75
Page Views: 4,976 total, 40/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Description

This is a stellar route! The Sting climbs an independent line immediately to the left of the beginning hand crack of Gamesmanship.

The climber has a choice to either begin the first 6 feet of Gamesmanship and step to the left trending crack of the Sting, or alternately and possibly a little harder, one can begin on small crimps directly below the beginning of the left-angling crack. Despite the chosen launching off point, you will encounter a tricky traverse followed by mitt-swallowing jams up a tremendous crack. You'll encounter a very brief off-hands section; however, a couple of #3 Camalots can help ease off-width-itis.

The route ends on the Sting Traverse Ledge at a bolted anchor threaded with some webbing and quick links. (Note: This anchor should be replaced!)

Location

100 feet to the right of the Positive Thinking clearing is a pair of cracks. The Sting is the lefthand crack that traverses out to the left.

Protection

A full rack with doubles from green to yellow Camalot sizes. An assortment of smaller gear with some RPs is welcomed.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8
If you want to up the grade a bit more on the variation start to the left, do the beginning moves to the "bucket handhold horizontal crack" completely statically, i.e. no semi-dyno to the holds. I saw this done once beautifully. Jun 22, 2016
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
 
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
 
My favorite pitch of 5.8 in the park, though quite tough in the grade. I find that gaining the large spike feature at the base of the splitter hand crack/end of the fingercrack is the crux. You can stop and relax in the middle of the finger traverse, it's not as bad as it looks from the ground. After all of that it's perfect hands/cupped hands to the top. Apr 26, 2016
Continuing up the the first pitch anchors of Gamesmanship requires a 70m rope to rappel. I ended up at those anchors with a single 60m and had to do a short rappel to The Sting's anchors to make it back to the ground. Sep 14, 2015
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
amazing climb. I've always dreamed of jamming fist after fist like in the movies. Aug 26, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.8
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.8
The Sting and Gamesmanship are maybe the two best 5.8s I've climbed in the park and it's just SO convenient that they are right next to each other. Nov 24, 2011
Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8+
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8+
I also recommend the 5.9 start. Fun moves. Aug 23, 2010
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.8
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.8
There is a 5.9 start variation a few feet to the left of the shared start with Gamesmanship. Make a couple bouldery moves up the face to a few incut buckets and gain the traverse. This is a good way to start the route if there is a party on P1 of Gamesmanship. Aug 3, 2010
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
For an added bit of fun climbing, don't traverse left to the ledge/anchors. Keep heading up and traverse right across the face towards Gamesmanship, passing a flake with a fixed stopper. Finish on the last 20 feet of gamesmanship. We used a 70m rope to rap off the first pitch of Gamesmanship, but not sure if that was neccessary or not. Oct 12, 2009