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Areas in New York

Adirondacks 974 / 174 / 149 / 224 / 200 / 6 / 45 / 15 / 1543
Angel Falls - Ice Climb 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Armonk Cliffs 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Bear Caves, The 0 / 0 / 1 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Belfast Pillars 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Castle Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cat Rock Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Catskills (Ice) 26 / 1 / 20 / 0 / 45 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 48
Central NY Ice 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Clarks Reservation Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
East Marion Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Glenmeal 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Gunks, The 748 / 0 / 209 / 183 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 1001
Harriman State Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
High Tor 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Hyde Park Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Ice Pond 0 / 0 / 0 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Little Falls 37 / 7 / 65 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 92
Monsey Glen Regional Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Murrow Park Pawling 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
New York City 0 / 0 / 1 / 62 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 63
Nyack beach state park 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Payne Lake 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall 0 / 9 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Plotterkill Preserve (ice) 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Powerlinez 81 / 5 / 486 / 64 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 566
Rock City State Forest 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Rockefeller State Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Salmon River Falls (Ice) 3 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 6
Split Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Stateline 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Tea Town Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Thacher State Park 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Thunder Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Tinker Falls (ice) 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
V.E. Macy Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Ward Pound Ridge Reservation 1 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
West Point (Closed / Illegal) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Z-Loft 2 / 0 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
Elevation: 2,339 ft
GPS: 41.968, -74.443 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Feb 26, 2006 with updates
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Description

Rock Climbing in New York State consists of three main regions: the world-famous Gunks, properly called the Shawangunks; the Adirondacks, a vast state park with dozens of crags scattered across an area the size of Rhode Island; and Moss Island, a small crag near Little Falls. Several other areas exist, e.g. bouldering in Central Park, the Timp in Harriman Park, as well as many places of questionable access and/or worth.

With the rise of Sport Climbing, several places once illegal and/or dangerous to climb at now bristle with gleaming metal, providing another facet to NYS's menu. Many of these places still exist under tenuous legal conditions, so check with the locals and be discrete.

A few crags relegated to the dustbin of history have been revived. These include places like the "Powerlinez", a crag that saw occasional traffic up to the early 80s but then became off-limits and fell into obscurity; and Thacher State Park, which finally opened to legal climbing in 2017.

The main rock climbing venues are near the eastern side of the state, so folks out in Rochester, Buffalo, etc. have a tough time of it - they're either traveling a long ways, pumping plastic, sneaking into the Niagara gorge, or driving across the border to climb in Canada.

Ice climbing is a bit more evenly spread out. The Adirondacks holds the most reliable and extensive ice, but the Catskills generally forms a lot of good ice as well, and the Finger Lakes Region boasts a few lesser-known classic lines (many of which, alas, are not legal to ascend).

Alpine climbing is limited to the Adirondacks, though a few Catskill peaks come close. None of the mountains are particularly tall - Mt. Marcy, at 5,344' is the highest - but the weather is capricious and runs the extremes. Winter ascents of the High Peaks can be very serious endeavors, especially when climbing a classic line such as the Trap Dike or Gothics North Face.

Although a small state compared to the big West, travel in NY, especially to its mountainous regions, can be tricky. Public transport is decent within two hours of NYC along the major transport corridors, but off these or farther away, and car rental, good maps, and good luck are required.

The great majority of visitors arrive in New York City; for those who do, the Gunks is a 2 hour bus ride to reach, and is definitely the place to go for rock climbing. The Catskills is a bit farther north, and having a car is almost mandatory, particularly during ice season. The Adirondacks is 4 to 5 hours away, and also requires a car. Moss Island lies along Interstate 90 and busses stop in the neighboring town of Little Falls https://www.mountainproject.com/v/powerlinez/108193801 https://www.mountainproject.com/v/thacher-state-park/113412886 Thacher State Park

3,486 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at New York

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Finger
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Exposure
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Ceiling
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Easy O
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directissima
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
CCK Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ants' Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frosted Mug
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Directississima
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Erect Direction
Trad 3 pitches
Little Finger Adirondacks > … > Rogers Rock > Rogers Slide 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
High Exposure Gunks > Trapps > i. High E 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Shockley's Ceiling Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara Adirondacks > C: Keene Region > Hurricane Crag 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc… Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Son of Easy O Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the Arch 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Modern Times Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Directissima Gunks > Trapps > i. High E 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Bonnie's Roof Gunks > Trapps > i. High E 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
CCK Direct Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Ants' Line Gunks > Trapps > i. High E 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Frosted Mug Adirondacks > … > Beer Walls > Upper Beer Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Directississima Gunks > Trapps > i. High E 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Erect Direction Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in New York »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
Adirondackrock.com is the guidebook for the region Dec 12, 2010
Bronson
Estes Park, CO
Bronson   Estes Park, CO
Dear Trumpeterfrodo,
I agree with you that McKenzie Pond bouldering is a treasure. There is the guide that Adam mentioned, which gives a nicely detailed map of the boulders and their names. The only incorrection it has is that many of the boulder problem names have been renamed in the early 2000's. Depending on when you began bouldering there, it may be a bit weird reading new names for many of the routes.
Hope you get to go back there and boulder.

Feb 10, 2010
AdamB Bunger
Chattanooga, TN
AdamB Bunger   Chattanooga, TN
newenglandbouldering.com/me…

there ya go. Aug 16, 2009
There used to be a online guidebook for McKenzie Ponds but I can't find it anymore unfortunately. Jul 29, 2009
AdamB Bunger
Chattanooga, TN
AdamB Bunger   Chattanooga, TN
I'll 3rd that McKenzie comment Aug 14, 2008
Mike O  
I like the adirondack's secrets. ;) Jul 6, 2007
RobHudson
Boulder
RobHudson   Boulder
True True, McKenzie Pond is a hidden treasure when its dry!! May 17, 2007
Someone should post some topos on McKenzie Pond Bouldering in Saranac Lake. I recently moved from the area, but it was my bouldering home. Anyone who has been there knows what a treasure it is! The Dacks are the BEST! Apr 27, 2007
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
When ya'll gonna post some Spiders Web stuff??? Aug 17, 2006

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