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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redirectional Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1946. FFA: Art Gran, 1950's
Page Views: 21,579 total, 151/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This great route is very popular, so plan ahead.

The Something Interesting access trail is about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. When the leaves are down, you'll spot the crack from the carriage road, and the access trail is just a few feet further. At the cliff, walk left to get to the start, below a long crack about 30' right of Three Pines.

P1: Follow a right-leaning finger crack to a bulge with a large reach, then surmount that to a ledge. There are several pitons to reassure you that you're in the right place.

P2: Continue up the crack and fun face above to the GT ledge. Gear anchor.

It's easy enough to link P1 and P2 in one 140' pitch to the GT - just bring lots of runners and gear. It's possible to rappel from the Three Pines bolts at the GT ledge (2 ropes, or 2 raps with 1 rope).

P3: Climb a left-facing dihedral behind the (missing) pine tree to a the larger right-facing dihedral above. Follow this to a bolt anchor. 5.7+, 90'.

The Dangler used to be listed as a variation for P3.

Rap with one rope using the bolted stations between Three Pines and Something Interesting.

Note if you're wanting to set up a TR or top belay: the bolted station at the top of P1 doesn't work well for TR or top belaying; they are 20' to the left of the pitch. At the GT, there are giant rocks at the top of the P2 that you can sling for a top belay (and plenty of gear placements available).

Protection

Standard Rack, extra finger-sized gear.
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.9 PG13
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.9 PG13
Just to add: don't miss the rappel from the top of Madame G! With 2 60m ropes you can reach the ground in one rappel, so make friends with a neighboring party and share ropes. The rappel is into the air, with an amazing view across the Middle Earth wall and out to Sky Top. This is my favorite rappel anywhere. Sep 11, 2017
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.9 PG13
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.9 PG13
The first pitch is interesting, the second pitch is "interesting". 5.7 is a heavy sandbag. Elders are nice and all, but the second pitch would be very dangerous for a 5.7 or even a 5.8 leader. Besides the difficulty and ledge-fall potential, there's a good amount of loose rock. It's the kind where it's obvious you shouldn't grab it (completely detached rocks somewhere between football and microwave sized) but it would be easy to kick one off the ledge by accident.

In the second pitch crux I found some hand jams that were better for me than any of the available face-style holds.

Whatever you do, don't stem up the easy holds in the second pitch dihedral to the roof, that way leads to sorrow. Sep 11, 2017
Systematic
  5.8
Systematic  
  5.8
P2 is worth doing at least once. Mostly just exposed 5.fun climbing but I did find 1 5.7PG move. I'm not sure where the pin used to be, but there is good pro (I placed 2 cams) in the broken corner / crack system that protects the first 1.5 moves. Jun 13, 2016
Dom R
Estes Park, Colorado
 
Dom R   Estes Park, Colorado
 
Easy to link pitches, definitely would fit the 5.8 or 5.8+ bill at a place like Eldo, but it's a fair gunks grade especially looking at the date it was climbed. Respect your elders. As for the gear at the second crux, theres a perfect horizontal right below the hard move. The movement on this climb is fantastic and throws a little bit of everything at you as far as the gunks go. Felt good to even get a few corner moves and hand jams in below the second crux. Dec 16, 2015
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.8+
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.8+
I just did this route again after many years. Like many Gunks routes the rating should be according to height. The Gunks is full of horizontals and if you can reach the next horizontal jug it may feel like 5.7 but it you can't it may feel like 5.10.

So this is an approximation of the rating based on height, according to me, your mileage may vary.
6.2 ft 5.7
5.10 ft 5.8
5.6 ft 5.9
5.2 ft 5.10 Jul 25, 2015
Did this guy yesterday. Placed a brown tricam somewhere before some move I wasn't sure about. My second and two other parties after us were unable to retrieve it. Seems that I left a permanent piece in something interesting. If you can get it out, it's yours. The route truly is something interesting.

The first crux took a while for me to sequence out. Definitely fair for the grade at the gunks. Oct 13, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Did this again today. There are a lot of comments about the crux being reachy. I am 5'2" and I do not find the first or second crux reachy at all. This is a great climb with "G" rated pro all the way up to the GT ledge. Aug 9, 2014
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
nice long climb. the grade seems acceptable for the gunks in my opinion. if i was called 5.8 it would make sense too. its sustained but not a 5.9 no matter what anyone's friend's say. esp when thinking of some other nines of climbed at the gunks. Nov 9, 2012
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9-
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9-
Ya, 5.9-

When I first climbed it, I was leading 5.7s...and this route felt hard for the grade. I've had several visiting friends from out of town grade it for me, they all range in the 8-9 range. Oct 2, 2012
JSH

JSH    
I'll miss that pin too, just for the sound it made.
Dave, 9- ? Sep 27, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Yikes, I missed the pin at the second crux. I was looking all around for it and it was gone! Stupidly, I didn't stop to place gear, I climbed through a couple more moves then placed some pro in a great horizontal. Lack of pin threw me off a bit! Sep 25, 2012
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9-
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9-
The third piton (high up) is gone. I'll miss clipping that thing, but there are many protection options. Sep 8, 2012
Drew_n Nichols
Park City, UT
Drew_n Nichols   Park City, UT
Hey everyone, fun route, highly recommended.

A variation question: On the GT ledge, we went just to the left (towards the bolted anchor for Three Pines) and climbed a short, steep roof that fed straight into the 2nd pitch dihedral for Something Interesting. It was fun, seemed to protect OK and felt moderate (I hesitate to even profess a ratings guess on a Gunks route!).

I cannot seem to find it in the Williams or Swain books, am I missing something?

Thanks. Aug 13, 2012
CatChen
Germantown, MD
CatChen   Germantown, MD
Best to link P1 and P2 and go straight to the GT ledge. I'm 5'3" and had no issues with reach. Bring lots of nuts. They were easier to place than cams in the shallow vertical crack. Save some 1-3" pieces for the anchor on the GT. Aug 6, 2012
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
p1 is long and great. p2 is short, but with some sweeet movement. May 29, 2012
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
 
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
 
Great climb lots of fun. Ended up finishing the three pines 5.6 variation. Apr 28, 2012
marcin  
We linked P1 and P2 into one pitch. We used mainly stopper nuts. It took some additional time to feel the moves for crux #1. Great climb. Dec 6, 2011
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
I think the pitch above the gt ledge is a scary waste of time. It's a one-move wonder with serious groundfall potential. P1 is sweet, sweet, sweet. The 1st crux is the hardest, but i'm 5'6" and it was no big deal. As far as gear, I would say G for P1 and pg-13 for the crux move on p2. The pin on p2 can be backed up. Jun 7, 2011
SethG  
I also would recommend the final pitch from the GT ledge. As long as the pin is good it is protected. The crux move is around the corner right above the pin. It is a cool, unusual move! The rest is just fun, with an easy but airy traverse and fun moves up the final corner. I found adequate pro for the traverse and then ample placements in the final corner. May 11, 2011
doligo
 
doligo  
 
There is a pin on the right side of the dihedral, right by where you're supposed to exit onto the face. I also thought the start of the pitch was a bit uncomfortable even with the pin - even getting to it is kind of spicy - there is big boulder on the GT ledge right underneath so you can't just jump off if you had to. Nov 5, 2010
losbill
  5.7+ PG13
losbill  
  5.7+ PG13
Jammed a yellow C4 in as I left the GT ledge. Wasn't going to keep me off the belay ledge but would keep me from bouncing off and going further. Got pretty high up before getting anything else in. Felt I was in ledge fall zone pretty much from the first move. Don't recall a piton coming into play. Nov 5, 2010
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.7+ PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.7+ PG13
Crux 1 has not so obvious move, but is not reachy. For the pitch off the GT, the crux is right at the start, protected by a piton. I don't think that's where the splat is, is it? Nov 4, 2010
losbill
  5.7+ PG13
losbill  
  5.7+ PG13
Ditto what jsh said about cat skinning. Not sure there is any need to reach.

BTW my PG13 rating is based on the second pitch (P3 as described above). Unless I missed something definitely kersplat potential for leader and a swinging smack into opposing face for second. I won't do it again. Nov 2, 2010
doligo
 
doligo  
 
I would like to blame it on sore muscles from trailwork the day before and on numb fingers from cold, but it's the same lame excuse as being short! Can't wait to get back on it. Nov 2, 2010
JSH

JSH    
In another area, SI may well have been 5.9!

While I am guilty of legendary whining about other routes being reachy - this is not one of them. That said, it might take a few trips up it to figure out the best sequence or holds for you - there are many ways to skin the cat, on both cruxes. Nov 2, 2010
S. Neoh  
Bring a full rack and enough slings and draws with the intent to do the route from the base to the GT ledge in one push. You will be pleased with yourself. Maybe a tad shorter than 140 feet. The pitch above the GT is a little dirty but worthy doing; quite different from the 1st. IMO, P1 is still still easier and less nervy than Drunkard's Delight. Nov 2, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Don't feel bad Dolgio...I think its 5.9... Nov 1, 2010
doligo
 
doligo  
 
Couple of notes, the Grey Dick divides the climb into 2 pitches: P1 follows the crack all the way to the GT Ledge (140 feet), it really doesn't make sense breaking the pitch into 2, unless you want to talk your second through the crux #1. Oh, and there is no need to follow pitons - the route follows the most obvious crack - it can be seen from the carriage road. P2 goes up left facing corner, swings right onto the face, then traverses left to the right facing corner up to bolted anchors. The crux is just off the GT ledge but is protected by a pin. The traverse is unprotected, but is relatively easy, so if you have a nervous second it's better to protect your second with double ropes or they would come close to hitting the GT ledge.

There is a bolted anchor station on top of P2 (different from the Three Pines Anchor), 2 60M ropes will get you all the way to the ground. It doesn't look like the top pitch gets climbed too often, but if anything, the rappel itself is worth going all the way to the top, if you don't want to wait on a conga line at Three Pines.

Re climbing: I'm 5'5 and found the crux#1 way too reachy for me, so I backed off it. Even as a second it was challenging, but I think I figured out the move (for anyone shorter than 5'7 it's a full on 5.7++). Crux#2 is not that bad (if you find the secret hold - don't sandbag yourself into a 5.9-5.10 move like my partner did). P2 crux is very awkward and also very reachy, can't believe it's only 5.7! Nov 1, 2010
Zivigliano
New York, NY
 
Zivigliano   New York, NY
 
Great long climb, however above the crux a chunk of rock broke off (slightly larger than a softball). Be careful as I noticed other spots on the route with weak or rotten rock, including a large attached flake. Oct 15, 2009
slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
interesting indeed, particularly the second pitch variation. Jun 8, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
It's funny, this route was very reminiscent of some 5.9+/5.10- routes in other areas.
In any case, this climb is incredible. A few doubles in the #3-6 Rock range are useful, but not required.
Do this route. Jun 15, 2008
Spiro
  5.7 PG13
Spiro  
  5.7 PG13
fun route, combined first and second pitch. Apr 9, 2008