Avg: 3.5 from 480 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1946. FFA: Art Gran, 1950's|
|Page Views:||26,190 total · 150/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Something Interesting access trail is about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. When the leaves are down, you'll spot the crack from the carriage road, and the access trail is just a few feet further. At the cliff, walk left to get to the start, below a long crack about 30' right of Three* Pines.
P1: Follow a right-leaning finger crack to a bulge with a large reach, then surmount that to a ledge. There are several pitons to reassure you that you're in the right place.
P2: Continue up the crack and fun face above to the GT ledge. Gear anchor.
It's easy enough to link P1 and P2 in one 140' pitch to the GT - just bring lots of runners and gear. It's possible to rappel from the Three* Pines bolts at the GT ledge (2 ropes, or 2 raps with 1 rope).
P3: Climb a left-facing dihedral behind the (missing) pine tree to a the larger right-facing dihedral above. Follow this to a bolt anchor. 5.7+, 90'.
The Dangler used to be listed as a variation for P3.
Rap with one rope using the bolted stations between Three* Pines and Something Interesting.
Note if you're wanting to set up a TR or top belay: the bolted station at the top of P1 doesn't work well for TR or top belaying; they are 20' to the left of the pitch. At the GT, there are giant rocks at the top of the P2 that you can sling for a top belay (and plenty of gear placements available).