Avg: 2.3 from 68 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Rich Perch, Ivan Rezucha 1975|
|Page Views:||5,219 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roth on May 20, 2009|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
To start, follow a crack that angles up left to the first set of overhangs then up right through a notch to a good ledge.
The 2nd pitch tackles a hanging right-facing corner directly over your head. It's steep right off the ledge and if the starting footholds break, you'll land on your belayer. After swinging around left at the top of this corner, you'll be faced with the crux bulge. Above, head up right to find another belay. The first two pitches could be linked, but the rope drag would be horrendous.
The third pitch follows a right-facing corner, shared with Dry Martini, until a steep hand traverse to the right to another right-facing corner which takes you to the top.
From the clifftop, you can walk right to rappel over Beginner's Delight.