Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Rich Perch, Ivan Rezucha 1975
Page Views: 4,192 total · 35/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 20, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details


How could this be 5.6? Overhang after overhang, this route weaves its way up some steep rock.

To start, follow a crack that angles up left to the first set of overhangs then up right through a notch to a good ledge.

The 2nd pitch tackles a hanging right-facing corner directly over your head. It's steep right off the ledge and if the starting footholds break, you'll land on your belayer. After swinging around left at the top of this corner, you'll be faced with the crux bulge. Above, head up right to find another belay. The first two pitches could be linked, but the rope drag would be horrendous.

The third pitch follows a right-facing corner, shared with Dry Martini, until a steep hand traverse to the right to another right-facing corner which takes you to the top.

From the clifftop, you can walk right to rappel over Beginner's Delight.


From Credibility Gap, walk left about 60 feet; further left is a big left-facing corner capped by a big ceiling. Alternatively you can approach from the Mac Wall by walking to the right about 200'; look for the deep left-facing corner where Dry Martini starts, and the left-leaning crack of this route is another 20' right of that.


Standard rack. There was a sketchy fixed-nut anchor above the 2nd pitch. There are also trees at the top. We chose to walk over to one of the more frequented rap routes...


North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
"How could this be 5.6?" you ask. It isn't. Both Williams and Swain rate this 5.7+. At least in my guidebooks. May 23, 2009
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
It is 5.6G in the newest Williams guide (2004).
I see now that the black book and Gunks.com list it as 5.7+
It didn't really feel harder than 5.6, but from below it looks impossible... May 27, 2009
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
I felt that this is as difficult or harder than Shockley's, in a different way.

That being said it is an interesting, and typically Gunks pumpy roof. Being taller definitely helps on this roof, short people beware that there's several tough hand holds as you're working your way up the crack with little help from your feet. It's a hefty layback. [We opted to bail on the last pitches due to wetness from rain the night before, but will return to finish it someday] Apr 18, 2011
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
Cannot recommend this route for a new leader. The crux is the first overhang and the holds are not great. Make sure to get a couple of bomber pieces in before and make sure your belayer is ready for a catch.

There's now a rap station on a tree at the top of P3. Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground. May 20, 2013
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
M Bageant   Los Angeles, CA
Harder than Gunks 5.6 and not recommended for a new leader due to some tough moves and some sketchy rock. Very enjoyable climbing though! Jun 13, 2016
New Paltz
  5.7+ PG13
Optimistic   New Paltz
  5.7+ PG13
This was an interesting route..."a bit of an adventure" was how a guide friend of mine described it...but as others have said this is not a good route for a fledgling leader. The first pitch has a couple of spots down low where you are most definitely in the no-fall zone, some loose rock, and some of the available protection is fiddly and maybe not totally bomber. Higher on p1 it is better to just not protect the right-facing corner and step left onto the face leading to the bolts. Otherwise you're going to have some really unpleasant drag at and above the bolts (skipping pro in the R facing corner did allow me to link 1&2 with minimal drag, and the climbing left of the corner is easy. However if you need to stay close to your second on p1, definitely do it in 3 pitches). On the final pitch there are a decent number of loose blocks. There is a bush/tree to contend with at the end of the (extremely cool and exposed) hand-traverse which adds to the alpine character.

We rapped Beginner's which is close by. Note that the 2nd rap station on Beginner's is pretty far to climber's left, my partner missed it and we had to do some shenanigans to get to the final rap bolts. Oct 8, 2016