Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Rich Perch, Ivan Rezucha 1975
Page Views: 4,824 total · 35/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 20, 2009
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

How could this be 5.6? Overhang after overhang, this route weaves its way up some steep rock.

To start, follow a crack that angles up left to the first set of overhangs then up right through a notch to a good ledge.

The 2nd pitch tackles a hanging right-facing corner directly over your head. It's steep right off the ledge and if the starting footholds break, you'll land on your belayer. After swinging around left at the top of this corner, you'll be faced with the crux bulge. Above, head up right to find another belay. The first two pitches could be linked, but the rope drag would be horrendous.

The third pitch follows a right-facing corner, shared with Dry Martini, until a steep hand traverse to the right to another right-facing corner which takes you to the top.

From the clifftop, you can walk right to rappel over Beginner's Delight.

Location

From Credibility Gap, walk left about 60 feet; further left is a big left-facing corner capped by a big ceiling. Alternatively you can approach from the Mac Wall by walking to the right about 200'; look for the deep left-facing corner where Dry Martini starts, and the left-leaning crack of this route is another 20' right of that.

Protection

Standard rack. There was a sketchy fixed-nut anchor above the 2nd pitch. There are also trees at the top. We chose to walk over to one of the more frequented rap routes...

Photos