Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Russ Raffa & Rich Ross - 1978
Page Views: 5,588 total · 36/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the rightmost climbs on the MF wall. It begins at a short, thin, black RP crack.

Climb this (somewhat scary), up to better gear and harder climbing. Lower off a two-bolt anchor. 5.10d, 80'.

Added from a local:

 Possibly the best route on the Mac wall, and that is saying something. A superb and rewarding lead that is hard to beat. While all the gear is good, it can be tricky to get; it can be slightly runout and the climbing is far from trivial. An excellent choice for those solid on hard 5.10

 Start as for Star Action. Climb straight up thin face about 15 feet to a very small ledge. From here climb the bulging face at a flake that is sitting on the small ledge. There is good gear to be had but it's strenuous to get; this section can be a little pumpy. Move slightly left and up to a small broken ledge and good rest. Continue up to the base of a nice left facing corner, get in some gear, and prepare to work up the tricky face just to the left of the corner. Next up is the crux overlap - get in bomber gear, and pull the technical and challenging sequence, moving up very slightly left and then back right, then follow a nice flake to just below the finish overhang. Pull over and traverse left to the chains shared with Star Action

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

GS is an exhilirating climb to which this post does not do justice. I don't remember much about the lower part but the crux roof is still clear. Good gear is to be had at the start of the (small) roof, so you feel well protected pulling the crux. The exhilirating part is that the next gear is probably 20 feet past the gear at the start of the roof; I recall it as one of those situations where each move is easier than the previous, but a pump begins to set in and your mind starts playing tricks. Jan 27, 2007
David Wilkerson
Rockville, MD
 
David Wilkerson   Rockville, MD
 
I agree with the last post, this is a great climb. Definitely one of the coolest cruxes on the Mac Wall. May 27, 2008
Greg Sudlow
PA
  5.10d PG13
Greg Sudlow   PA
  5.10d PG13
Thrice the first comment above, it is a shame that original route post can’t be edited if they tell so little about the route. Nevertheless, this climb is one of the best in the Gunks with great variation, technical moves and stellar positioning. May 14, 2010
JSH

JSH    
I asked a local dude, Dave, to supplement the description, and added it in italics above ... hope it helps! Jun 10, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.10d PG13
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.10d PG13
A super climb. Not having the right sized cam at the crux made it pretty spicy. Aug 6, 2010
If you have tricams they go great at the crux Aug 7, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Great climb! I agree it is the best on the MF wall. Surprisingly technical at the crux. If you hang out too long figuring out the sequence the pump will sneak up on you. Not a handbag! Sep 3, 2010
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10d PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10d PG13
5 red c3s/green aliens - a new record! Mar 10, 2011
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10d PG13
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10d PG13
Quite a step up in commitment from Coexistence. It is more sustained, more technical, and definitely has larger fall/pendulum potential! Nothing bigger than a .75 c4 is necessary or even placable for that matter. Fantastic moves and position! This is as good as single pitch trad climbing gets! Apr 23, 2016