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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redirectional Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1946: Fritz Wiessner and Bill Shockley
Page Views: 4,693 total, 43/month
Shared By: bryan barnett on Nov 4, 2008 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

1. (100') Climb the corner to the overhang. Step right and then up and left - a tricky move. Continue left and up to small ledges below a face near an outside corner. The anchor is a clump of medium-size trees with rap slings, and a 60m rope will get you down from there.

2. (60') Climb left, exit the corner after just a few feet, and head up the face, past flakes (some may be hollow and loose; one fell in 2013, and see comment below in 2016), to an overhang. Climb through the overhang, then another overhang, and up right to a big ledge and tree belay.

From Kurtz: The missing flake under the final overhang may have made the overhang on P2 significantly harder (5.8ish). I'm 6' tall and it was a big reach to the hard-to-see bomber jug. It's a very committing (but fun) move now. I didn't see any easier way out.

P3. Kurtz: P3 is really 3 short walls separated by grassy ledges. The first two are easy and protect well, the third is harder and slabby without any pro. It's only a couple of balancey moves, but they are challenging (5.8 PG)

Descent
From the top, one option is the Blueberry Ledges/Beginner's Delight rappels, to the north (the rings are 5 feet up in a medium sized tree, on a big grassy ledge). It takes three rappels with a 60m to get down. The first rappel is short, only about 65 feet long, and the second rap tree is easy to miss since it's quite a ways to the left; if you rap too far, you'll be hanging in space below a ledge. The third rap station is a whacky setup of red rope wrapped around a boulder. Despite the core-shot in one of the strands, it's currently safe enough but, for some reason, the rope tends to bind making it an absolute misery to pull.

A better option is to walk south (climbers' left) to the bolted rappel line over Three Pines. 3 60m rappels get you to the ground.

Location

At the large right-facing corner uphill and right of the McCarthy Wall (Coexistence et al.).

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Rappel from tree - be careful to move your knot below the notch, as stuck ropes have happened.
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
My rating is based on doing P2. P1 is a nice 5.7 G climb. If doing P2, be a solid 5.8 leader with a cool head. The flakes are a bit nerve-wracking...the stuff on the right side is just crap...don't pull on it! Standing on top of the big flake there's a huge block to the left that teeter-totters. The gear going into the crux is small and you will need to be a little creative. Once you reach the holds over the first overhang (reachy) you can plug a good finger-sized cam. The head-game of all that combined with a rather burly final roof (well protected, but out of sight of belayer) makes this a 5.8/PG. Oh and if you do P2, you're committed to P3 as far as we could tell...no slings on a tree there but a lot of loose stuff.

Finally, if you do P2, remember the Co-Ex area is directly below you so maybe give those folks a heads-up before you leave the ground. Oct 30, 2017
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
I love this route. Lots of variety and excitement (shady too!).

P3 is really 3 short walls separated by grassy ledges. The first two are easy and protect well, the third is harder and slabby without any pro. It's only a couple of balancey moves, but they are challenging (5.8 PG) Sep 6, 2015
There is now nothing left of the tree at 80 ft comprising the "optional belay" that the grey Dick mentions. There's a clump of medium-size trees w/ rap slings 20 ft higher, and a 60m rope will get you down from there. Aug 19, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Lots of loose rock on P2. Tread lightly! May 9, 2014
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
Yeah, a very nice route I thought. Kind of epic. And not too bad for the grade either. Mar 28, 2014
Jon Booth
  5.7
Jon Booth  
  5.7
Oct 5th, 2013: While my partner was coming up, a large flake (~3ft long) broke off, just below the roof on P2. It seemed like a highly used hold, as it was covered in chalk. I posted a couple of pictures for a better description. Oct 8, 2013
Johan
San Francisco, CA
 
Johan   San Francisco, CA
 
I recently got a rope stuck on the rappel off of this route, at the notch right at the top lip. I noticed that a previous tick here on MP says the same happened to them. So: be mindful of your rope flossing that notch. It's definitely best to bring the knot down with you past the lip. Double 60m ropes will still get you down to the ground even if you bring the knot down past the lip in this way. Oct 22, 2012
losbill
  5.7+ PG13
losbill  
  5.7+ PG13
Beware of the white flaky rock beneath the first overhang on pitch 2. Most of it flexes and wobbles when you pull or step on it which can't be avoided as you step up to the overhang. Go lightly. A large block off to the left is completely detached and just sitting on the block beneath it. Sep 6, 2010
- - -  
One better descent option to rap from the tree at the top of P2 to the bolts that are 25ft left of you when you're at the P1 belay. I'm not sure what route that is - something just right of co-ex. May 21, 2009