Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1946: Fritz Wiessner and Bill Shockley
Page Views: 5,128 total · 41/month
Shared By: bryan barnett on Nov 4, 2008 with updates from Kurtz
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

1. (100') Climb the corner to the overhang. Step right and then up and left - a tricky move. Continue left and up to small ledges below a face near an outside corner. The anchor is a clump of medium-size trees with rap slings, and a 60m rope will get you down from there.

2. (60') Climb left, exit the corner after just a few feet, and head up the face, past flakes (some may be hollow and loose; one fell in 2013, and see comment below in 2016), to an overhang. Climb through the overhang, then another overhang, and up right to a big ledge and tree belay.

From Kurtz: The missing flake under the final overhang may have made the overhang on P2 significantly harder (5.8ish). I'm 6' tall and it was a big reach to the hard-to-see bomber jug. It's a very committing (but fun) move now. I didn't see any easier way out.

P3. Kurtz: P3 is really 3 short walls separated by grassy ledges. The first two are easy and protect well, the third is harder and slabby without any pro. It's only a couple of balancey moves, but they are challenging (5.8 PG)

Descent
From the top, one option is the Blueberry Ledges/Beginner's Delight rappels, to the north (the rings are 5 feet up in a medium sized tree, on a big grassy ledge). It takes three rappels with a 60m to get down. The first rappel is short, only about 65 feet long, and the second rap tree is easy to miss since it's quite a ways to the left; if you rap too far, you'll be hanging in space below a ledge. The third rap station is a whacky setup of red rope wrapped around a boulder. Despite the core-shot in one of the strands, it's currently safe enough but, for some reason, the rope tends to bind making it an absolute misery to pull.

A better option is to walk south (climbers' left) to the bolted rappel line over Three Pines. 3 60m rappels get you to the ground.

Location

At the large right-facing corner uphill and right of the McCarthy Wall (Coexistence et al.).

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Rappel from tree - be careful to move your knot below the notch, as stuck ropes have happened.

Photos

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One better descent option to rap from the tree at the top of P2 to the bolts that are 25ft left of you when you're at the P1 belay. I'm not sure what route that is - something just right of co-ex. May 21, 2009
losbill
  5.7+ PG13
losbill  
  5.7+ PG13
Beware of the white flaky rock beneath the first overhang on pitch 2. Most of it flexes and wobbles when you pull or step on it which can't be avoided as you step up to the overhang. Go lightly. A large block off to the left is completely detached and just sitting on the block beneath it. Sep 6, 2010
Johan
San Francisco, CA
 
Johan   San Francisco, CA
 
I recently got a rope stuck on the rappel off of this route, at the notch right at the top lip. I noticed that a previous tick here on MP says the same happened to them. So: be mindful of your rope flossing that notch. It's definitely best to bring the knot down with you past the lip. Double 60m ropes will still get you down to the ground even if you bring the knot down past the lip in this way. Oct 22, 2012
Jon Booth
  5.7
Jon Booth  
  5.7
Oct 5th, 2013: While my partner was coming up, a large flake (~3ft long) broke off, just below the roof on P2. It seemed like a highly used hold, as it was covered in chalk. I posted a couple of pictures for a better description. Oct 8, 2013
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
Yeah, a very nice route I thought. Kind of epic. And not too bad for the grade either. Mar 28, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Lots of loose rock on P2. Tread lightly! May 9, 2014
There is now nothing left of the tree at 80 ft comprising the "optional belay" that the grey Dick mentions. There's a clump of medium-size trees w/ rap slings 20 ft higher, and a 60m rope will get you down from there. Aug 19, 2014
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
I love this route. Lots of variety and excitement (shady too!).

P3 is really 3 short walls separated by grassy ledges. The first two are easy and protect well, the third is harder and slabby without any pro. It's only a couple of balancey moves, but they are challenging (5.8 PG) Sep 6, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 PG13
My rating is based on doing P2. P1 is a nice 5.7 G climb. If doing P2, be a solid 5.8 leader with a cool head. The flakes are a bit nerve-wracking...the stuff on the right side is just crap...don't pull on it! Standing on top of the big flake there's a huge block to the left that teeter-totters. The gear going into the crux is small and you will need to be a little creative. Once you reach the holds over the first overhang (reachy) you can plug a good finger-sized cam. The head-game of all that combined with a rather burly final roof (well protected, but out of sight of belayer) makes this a 5.8/PG. Oh and if you do P2, you're committed to P3 as far as we could tell...no slings on a tree there but a lot of loose stuff.

Finally, if you do P2, remember the Co-Ex area is directly below you so maybe give those folks a heads-up before you leave the ground. Oct 30, 2017
JSW
JSW  
Did this on Saturday, that block on P2 is terrifying. I only touched it to verify it was as loose as it looks and it is right below the easiest way to surmount the overhang. it seems very possible for a careless climber to send that down on the folks on tough shift. Loved the pitch but I will be aware of folks on that route every time I walk under it. It is however easy to rap off slings 30 to the left and get down using the bolts on star action. Apr 16, 2018