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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lanman / R-Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad
FA: S. Angelini, A. Rubin, A. Juncusa
Page Views: 2,353 total · 24/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Several 5.8/5.9 sections lead to a short, tricky crux. The protection is all there.

Start ten feet right of Something Interesting. Climb, wandering right and left, for 40 feet or so to a short, orange face; at that point you will more or less at the same level as the crux bulge of Something Interesting. Move up into a short, right-facing corner (crux), then go straight up to finish on Something Interesting.

You won't be able to climb this independently of climbers on Something Interesting - you'll have to figure out how to interleave with them, or wait until both routes are free.

Location [Suggest Change]

McCarthy Wall, ten feet right of Something Interesting, at a very small, left-facing corner that begins at the ground.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

Excellent route but I would be careful about saying the protection is all there. There is some pretty runout climbing down low on poor gear. The climbing builds and the runout is on 5.7 or 5.8 climbing, but this not a route for a new 5.10 leader. The crux is very well protected with excellent moves. Someone looking for an entry level 5.10 lead will be in for a rude awakening on this climb. Jun 2, 2010
akline
  5.10b R
akline  
  5.10b R
i agree with david. small run-outs down low on so-so gear, and then you do a long run-out through the crux, but the gear you are climbing above at this point is bomber, just long fall potential. heads-up for sure Sep 11, 2011
Akline, you can actually get a really good brassie just after the crux that pretty much eliminates any runout there. That being said the lower runouts are unavoidable. Sep 15, 2011
I disagree here. While this is a PG climb, the PG part is above the crux. You can place a nut after the crux but it is strenuous to place. On the bottom, you have to be creative with gear and nuts, but each time I climb this, I am placing good gear every 5 - 10 feet, even at the bottom. And you can climb this while avoiding something interesting by climbing to the right to the higher stannard bolt anchors. Nov 30, 2011
mmacelhi
Gunks
 
mmacelhi   Gunks
 
I would agree with Matt. I would call this PG and also suggest ending at the HS anchors Jun 7, 2018

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