Type: Trad
FA: S. Angelini, A. Rubin, A. Juncusa
Page Views: 2,490 total · 23/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Several 5.8/5.9 sections lead to a short, tricky crux. The protection is all there.

Start ten feet right of Something Interesting. Climb, wandering right and left, for 40 feet or so to a short, orange face; at that point you will more or less at the same level as the crux bulge of Something Interesting. Move up into a short, right-facing corner (crux), then go straight up to finish on Something Interesting.

You won't be able to climb this independently of climbers on Something Interesting - you'll have to figure out how to interleave with them, or wait until both routes are free.

Location

McCarthy Wall, ten feet right of Something Interesting, at a very small, left-facing corner that begins at the ground.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

Excellent route but I would be careful about saying the protection is all there. There is some pretty runout climbing down low on poor gear. The climbing builds and the runout is on 5.7 or 5.8 climbing, but this not a route for a new 5.10 leader. The crux is very well protected with excellent moves. Someone looking for an entry level 5.10 lead will be in for a rude awakening on this climb. Jun 2, 2010
akline
  5.10b R
akline  
  5.10b R
i agree with david. small run-outs down low on so-so gear, and then you do a long run-out through the crux, but the gear you are climbing above at this point is bomber, just long fall potential. heads-up for sure Sep 11, 2011
Akline, you can actually get a really good brassie just after the crux that pretty much eliminates any runout there. That being said the lower runouts are unavoidable. Sep 15, 2011
I disagree here. While this is a PG climb, the PG part is above the crux. You can place a nut after the crux but it is strenuous to place. On the bottom, you have to be creative with gear and nuts, but each time I climb this, I am placing good gear every 5 - 10 feet, even at the bottom. And you can climb this while avoiding something interesting by climbing to the right to the higher stannard bolt anchors. Nov 30, 2011
mmacelhi
Gunks
 
mmacelhi   Gunks
 
I would agree with Matt. I would call this PG and also suggest ending at the HS anchors Jun 7, 2018