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Welcome to the Gunks
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 143
votes
Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Interstice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jungleland T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lanman / R-Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X |
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Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Three* Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft |
| FA: | Andy Cairns & Jim Kolocotronis - 1973 |
| Page Views: | 17,571 total · 100/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
Welcome to the Gunks is a nice little single-pitch climb that passes through multiple roofs!
Begin below tiered roofs at the center of a low roof with two crack/flake systems which is right of Tequila Mockingbird and Dry Martini. The access trail for Welcome to the Gunks is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
The first bit is difficult and scary - unprotected moves on slopers will get you to some decent gear. Above this there is another runout through the second roof, but fortunately the rest of the climb is well-protected.
A 2-bolt anchor gets you to the ground with one 60m rope.
Begin below tiered roofs at the center of a low roof with two crack/flake systems which is right of Tequila Mockingbird and Dry Martini. The access trail for Welcome to the Gunks is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
The first bit is difficult and scary - unprotected moves on slopers will get you to some decent gear. Above this there is another runout through the second roof, but fortunately the rest of the climb is well-protected.
A 2-bolt anchor gets you to the ground with one 60m rope.
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