Avg: 3.1 from 43 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||John Stannard et al., 1975|
|Page Views:||3,197 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||J. Nickel on May 24, 2008|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Pitch 1, 80', 5.10b PG: Start below the left end of a small overhang 20' right of Birdie Party and about 10' left of MF. Climb up to the small overhang, place cams in the horizontal, and crank up to the thin seam that goes up from the left end of the overhang. A marginal nut placement can be had before climbing up to the ledge. Head up to the obvious, arching, left facing corner and place several pieces of gear as high as you can before pulling up above it to your next gear at a horizontal crack below a small overhang. Work right across moderate terrain underneath the huge left-facing flake. Place a large cam (blue camalot) before moving right to the MF bolts.
Pitch 2,100', 10d (5.9R), description courtesy of ?? : From the bolted belay, traverse left a bit past the left end of the Birdie Party roof. Look for a thin seam creasing the ceiling: cross the roof at that point (crux). Move up series of shallow corners for 15 or 20 feet, then angle up and slightly left to the GT ledge. 100 feet, 5.10d, PG. Strenuous, a bit continuous, and fun.