Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Stannard et al., 1975
Page Views: 2,669 total · 20/month
Shared By: J. Nickel on May 24, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This is an interesting route up the face between Birdie Party and Mother's Day Party, on the Mac Wall.

Pitch 1, 80', 5.10b PG: Start below the left end of a small overhang 20' right of Birdie Party and about 10' left of MF. Climb up to the small overhang, place cams in the horizontal, and crank up to the thin seam that goes up from the left end of the overhang. A marginal nut placement can be had before climbing up to the ledge. Head up to the obvious, arching, left facing corner and place several pieces of gear as high as you can before pulling up above it to your next gear at a horizontal crack below a small overhang. Work right across moderate terrain underneath the huge left-facing flake. Place a large cam (blue camalot) before moving right to the MF bolts.

Pitch 2,100', 10d (5.9R), description courtesy of Dana Bartlett : From the bolted belay, traverse left a bit past the left end of the Birdie Party roof. Look for a thin seam creasing the ceiling: cross the roof at that point (crux). Move up series of shallow corners for 15 or 20 feet, then angle up and slightly left to the GT ledge. 100 feet, 5.10d, PG. Strenuous, a bit continuous, and fun.

Location

The Mac Wall access trail, a 5 minute walk from the Uberfall, leads to the base of MF. Interstice starts about 10' to the left of MF.

Protection

Small wires to 3.5"

Photos

The second pitch is well protected. Mar 10, 2011
paulmadry
  5.10c/d
paulmadry  
  5.10c/d
Yep. 2nd pitch is G, at least to the closest rap anchor. Aug 20, 2013
Wes J
Kingston, NY
Wes J   Kingston, NY
A block came out of the roof this afternoon as a climber was taking a rest. It shouldn't change the gear rating, but you might want to haul up your #3 Camalot now. Nov 8, 2015
SethG  
You mean the pitch 2 roof? Nov 8, 2015
SethG  
Second pitch roof is really good, and is as well protected as any roof in the Gunks IMHO. If there is any R-rated climbing on the second pitch, it must come after the fixed anchor. Nov 21, 2017
BROsenthal
Tarrytown, NY
 
BROsenthal   Tarrytown, NY
 
  • **Gear Beta Below***

I think the first pitch is G. The marginal nut placement mentioned for the first pitch sketchy party isn’t useful or necessary. You can get a good .3 x4 in that same shallow vertical crack. It’s perpendicular to the rock face, so it looks weird but it’s good (I bounced it hard while on top rope). Alternatively, an offset .3/.4 or a metolius mastercam 2/3 makes that placement bomber. Oct 27, 2018
mnjsan  
Can’t speak on the .3 placement Brosenthal references as I placed a nut there but the first pitch in its entirety is most certainly not G. There are 2 sections above the crux that are easier climbing but not easy and one is a move above a ledge and the other the app calls 5.8R. Still a great climb on a wall with may great climbs. Oct 28, 2018