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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redirectional Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Stannard et al., 1975
Page Views: 2,344 total, 20/month
Shared By: J. Nickel on May 24, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This is an interesting route up the face between Birdie Party and Mother's Day Party, on the Mac Wall.

Pitch 1, 80', 5.10b PG: Start below the left end of a small overhang 20' right of Birdie Party and about 10' left of MF. Climb up to the small overhang, place cams in the horizontal, and crank up to the thin seam that goes up from the left end of the overhang. A marginal nut placement can be had before climbing up to the ledge. Head up to the obvious, arching, left facing corner and place several pieces of gear as high as you can before pulling up above it to your next gear at a horizontal crack below a small overhang. Work right across moderate terrain underneath the huge left-facing flake. Place a large cam (blue camalot) before moving right to the MF bolts.

Pitch 2,100', 10d (5.9R), description courtesy of Dana Bartlett : From the bolted belay, traverse left a bit past the left end of the Birdie Party roof. Look for a thin seam creasing the ceiling: cross the roof at that point (crux). Move up series of shallow corners for 15 or 20 feet, then angle up and slightly left to the GT ledge. 100 feet, 5.10d, PG. Strenuous, a bit continuous, and fun.

Location

The Mac Wall access trail, a 5 minute walk from the Uberfall, leads to the base of MF. Interstice starts about 10' to the left of MF.

Protection

Small wires to 3.5"

Photos

SethG  
Second pitch roof is really good, and is as well protected as any roof in the Gunks IMHO. If there is any R-rated climbing on the second pitch, it must come after the fixed anchor. Nov 21, 2017
SethG  
You mean the pitch 2 roof? Nov 8, 2015
Wes John-Alder
Brooklyn, New York
Wes John-Alder   Brooklyn, New York
A block came out of the roof this afternoon as a climber was taking a rest. It shouldn't change the gear rating, but you might want to haul up your #3 Camalot now. Nov 8, 2015
paulmadry
  5.10c/d
paulmadry  
  5.10c/d
Yep. 2nd pitch is G, at least to the closest rap anchor. Aug 20, 2013
The second pitch is well protected. Mar 10, 2011