Avg: 3.3 from 143 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA - Jim McCarthy and Doug Thompkins, 1959, FFA - Kevin Bein, 1966|
|Page Views:||9,497 total · 63/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Mekolites on Feb 15, 2008|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Pitch one climbs a thin crack up and traverses right to a thin, left-leaning crack, continuing up past a short right-facing corner to a pair of bolts.
If you're continuing on, clip 'em put a long runner on it, 'cause your about to head right. Way right, on an exciting ride. There is a pointed flake out there in the distance ... head that way, and when you get there don't forget about your second! Continue along the exciting hand traverse across the flake to the bolt anchors above MF. Belay.
Pitch two will require a bit of wandering to get up and into the business. From the MF bolts, head left a touch to a flake in the "ceiling", wait now come back right, now crank up and over the ceiling on the flake to a stance...don't forget about how your gonna sew this one up, but don't kill yourself with rope drag either. From here the route continues straight up, connecting with MF.
We actually rapped from the mentioned stance above the crux on the second pitch. There was a scary fixed anchor that consisted of an alien with clipped wires, a TCU with clipped wires and a tricam...we lived.
From the clifftop, there are bolts to the left above Three Pines. Three rappels with a single rope will get you to the ground.