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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redirectional Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA - Jim McCarthy and Doug Thompkins, 1959, FFA - Kevin Bein, 1966
Page Views: 7,494 total, 63/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Feb 15, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch one is a great, solid 5.8 on its own.

Pitch one climbs a thin crack up and traverses right to a thin, left-leaning crack, continuing up past a short right-facing corner to a pair of bolts.

If you're continuing on, clip 'em put a long runner on it, 'cause your about to head right. Way right, on an exciting ride. There is a pointed flake out there in the distance ... head that way, and when you get there don't forget about your second! Continue along the exciting hand traverse across the flake to the bolt anchors above MF. Belay.

Pitch two will require a bit of wandering to get up and into the business. From the MF bolts, head left a touch to a flake in the "ceiling", wait now come back right, now crank up and over the ceiling on the flake to a stance...don't forget about how your gonna sew this one up, but don't kill yourself with rope drag either. From here the route continues straight up, connecting with MF.

We actually rapped from the mentioned stance above the crux on the second pitch. There was a scary fixed anchor that consisted of an alien with clipped wires, a TCU with clipped wires and a tricam...we lived.

From the clifftop, there are bolts to the left above Three Pines. Three rappels with a single rope will get you to the ground.

Location

The Mac Wall Trail is about a 7 minute walk from the Uberfall.

Birdie Party starts at a thin crack halfway between Something Interesting and MF; it's also about 20' right of the big tree that's just next to the start of Higher Stannard.

Protection

Standard trad rack
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.10b
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.10b
It was hot when I climbed it, but it felt like a solid 10b to me, certainly well harder than any 10a roof in the gunks and definitely not a 9.

Once you pull the roof you still have a few delicate moves off small holds with the gear below your feet. Totally safe, but you will be looking at big air time. Great climb, and the traverse is very fun. Apr 11, 2017
I'd have to agree with Jaysen, feels like kittens compared to other 10's around that sector. Aug 14, 2012
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
I've been climbing a lot of 10's in the gunks and I found p2 of this one to be easiest than even 10a - it felt much more like 9. I found that the most difficult part was placing pro under the roof on p2 but the moves really didn't feel any harder than 5.8. Am I missing something? I'm not going to suggest a new grade but I'dd just like to see if I'm the only one? Sep 30, 2011
JSH

JSH    
P1 to the chains is 5.8/5.8+ and a good goal at that grade. Most 5.10 leaders skip any pro in the first 15' of the crack before you traverse right. Because I am a wimp who does not lead 5.10, I sometimes place up to 4 pieces in that section - it can be done, with micronuts and including a magic pink tricam (stinger right, it just clicks into place). The rest of the pitch takes a variety of nuts, but watch the rope pull - zippering is a possibility. Jul 30, 2009
You miss the traverse, but you get a 200 ft pitch of 5.10 climbing with a great line. The traverse is ok, but nothing to rave about. The other way it is two pitches one being 5.8 and the other being 5.10. Plus doing it in one long pitch makes the roof much less of an issue if the leader happens to fall as you won't be falling on your belayer. Jul 16, 2009
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Yes. Jul 14, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Ya but you miss the killer hand traverse along the flake, no? Jun 15, 2009
The best line to do this in one pitch is to actually to the first pitch of Mothers Day Party which allows you the climb straight up through the second pitch roof on Birdie Party. Not only is this a better and more direct line it also makes for more consistent climbing as both pitches go at 5.10 as opposed to a 5.8 and 5.10 pitch. Once of the best linkups in the Gunks. Jun 15, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Stellar! If you mind the rope drag, its possible to climb this in one pitch to GTL. This is especially nice as it avoids the contrived down-climb to the MF bolt anchors. Jun 14, 2009
In my opinion, one of the Gunks' best routes. First pitch has great face climbing, a big flake to fool with; second pitch roof is full body-length but well protected, with a nice little 5.7 runout above. Feb 19, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Great description. Feb 17, 2008