Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rick Pleiss, 1970s
Page Views: 3,371 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb is a tough one. Hard to climb and harder to onsight. Be ready to do insecure moves or get pumped stupid trying to find "somethng good" and then do the hard crux insecure AND tired.

The access trail for Laughing Man is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, go right to find the route.

Just to the right of the more popular Welcome to the Gunks locate a decent-sized roof about 7-10 meters off the ground.

2011: A block has broken off at the top of the initial slab section for the right-hand start variation of Welcome to the Gunks, which is also the start of Laughing Man

P1: Climb up to and right through this roof (crux). I think I recall a good horizontal cam for pro, but falling might produce a nasty swing, so place this thoughtfully. Once above the roof and standing upright again, climb up and slightly left into a short left-facing corner. From there, climb mostly right (practically a traverse) along some decent holds, then up and left on a crack line toward some small trees. 5.11b PG, 80'.

Descent: use the Welcome to the Gunks double bolt anchor.

Protection

Some cams and nuts. As I recall it, the crux was off of a solid hand-sized cam in a horizontal, but also as I recall it, you could take a pretty good-sized fall on this, swinging and probably bending up the wires. Watch the sling or biners near the edge!

Photos

One of the guidebooks says the way Juan is doing it in the photo is a 5.10 variation. It says the 5.11 way is a bit right of that. We couldn't get up anything over there, so we did it this way. May 21, 2007
chris_vultaggio
The Gunks
 
chris_vultaggio   The Gunks
 
There is a way to get up right, which feels pretty solid for the grade.

5.8/9 section below the roof is pretty R, but the crux is super protectable with hand size cams. Jun 20, 2010
Alex CV
Greater NYC area
 
Alex CV   Greater NYC area
 
I believe the Williams guide describes traversing either left or right as 5.10 variants. My understanding of the proper line (asked locals) is to go straight up staying close to the vertical seam without traversing at the lip of the roof. A bit contrived--the left line actually makes the most sense to me, but I am happy to have done it both ways. Jun 7, 2014