Avg: 3 from 211 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, Joe Kelsey, Dick Williams 1968|
|Page Views:||10,173 total · 58/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Welch on Apr 23, 2007|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Pitch 1 is a good introduction to 5.6 for a solid 5.5 leader. The crux moves are exciting and exposed, but the holds are all big, and the moves well protected. The route is better than it looks from the ground.
P1: Climb the crack in the slick but slabby left face of the corner. From the top, diagonal up and left on easy rock to an obvious, low-angle right facing corner. You can belay here, but I found no need to. Climb the ramp and corner to the roof, then make an airy exit left onto the face.
After The Move, go 20' straight up the steep face to the ledge with a couple pine trees to belay ( a 70m is necessary to descend from the left side of this ledge. Or traverse left immediately after pulling through the 'move' to the bolted rappel station over Welcome to the Gunks to avoid the loose rock higher on the pitch, and rappel to the ground with one 60m rope. 5.6 G/PG, ~110 feet.
P2: Straight up to the largest overhang about 30 feet up, step left and climb up the face to a small flaky left-facing corner, step back right and go up to a pine tree on the GT ledge. 5.5 PG, 60 feet.
Descent: From the GT ledge, two ropes to the ground; or rappel leftwards to the double-bolt anchor above Welcome to the Gunks.