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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redirectional Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Joe Kelsey, Dick Williams 1968
Page Views: 6,595 total, 51/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Credibility Gap is a fun 5.6 just the the left of Asphodel's huge right-facing corner. The route begins right at the base of the corner.

Pitch 1 is a good introduction to 5.6 for a solid 5.5 leader. The crux moves are exciting and exposed, but the holds are all big, and the moves well protected. The route is better than it looks from the ground.

P1: Climb the crack in the slick but slabby left face of the corner. From the top, diagonal up and left on easy rock to an obvious, low-angle right facing corner. You can belay here, but I found no need to. Climb the ramp and corner to the roof, then make an airy exit left onto the face. Go straight up the steep face to the ledge with a couple pine trees (this is also the belay for Welcome to the Gunks. 5.6 G/PG, ~110 feet.

You need 2x60m or a 70m rope to rappel from here, and be sure to toss the rope towards climber's left to avoid the pine trees at the P1 belay ledge.

P2: Straight up to the largest overhang about 30 feet up, step left and climb up the face to a small flaky left-facing corner, step back right and go up to a pine tree on the GT ledge. 5.5 PG, 60 feet.

Descent: From the GT ledge, two ropes to the ground; or rappel leftwards to the double-bolt anchor above Welcome to the Gunks.

Location

Between the Mac Wall and Beginner's Delight; starts at the obvious Asphodel corner. The trail for Welcome to the Gunks provides the quickest access.

Protection

The Williams guide gives P1 a PG rating; however, I felt the pitch was G. The crux protects well with a 3" cam. There are some short runouts, but only on very easy rock. Other than the large cam, a standard Gunks rack is fine.
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.6
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.6
BETA:>>> A semi-tricky #3 C4 protects the 'airy-exit' move well!

Fun climb! Nov 3, 2009
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
Same comment as others - a tricky #3 before the crux, and a .75 at the edge of the roof if you want it (we found it easier to clean this piece after pulling around the roof/corner.

I also though the slipper insecure no-great-feet section at the top of the starting crack was the technical crux (5.6...+?). maybe the roof thing is the mental crux (maybe 5.4?)

ALSO highly recommend doubles or breaking it into two pitches, kind of hard to avoid the rope bending around an arete and then a roof. Aug 22, 2017
JSH

JSH    
I followed this route early on in my climbing career, and felt foolish for how long I stood there before executing the move.

I followed this move last weekend, some 20 years later, and still felt foolish for how long I still stood there before executing the move.

Lots of good climbing on the first pitch, though. Jul 24, 2017
JimC25
  5.6
JimC25  
  5.6
Great exercise in rope management. Did in one pitch, with some decent but manageable drag. If you have a strong second can get away with some long extensions and back cleaning after you get on top of the first wall crack so rope runs clean to the left. Finger crack on start is more probable than it looks, but you are placing gear from the side some of the time so a little awkward rather than pumpy. A nice start to the climb. The "move" can be protected with a C3 close to edge (about 2ft) and a smaller cam out on nose at the edge if you want to back it up, but I just used the C3, it was bomber. Real fun. Mar 2, 2017
Joel Ryan
New York, New York
  5.6
Joel Ryan   New York, New York
  5.6
Manky rappel station at tree replaced with redundant 8mm cord, 70m rope required to rap in one go.

It's much easier to traverse left immediately after pulling through the 'move', to the bolted rappel station. This avoids the loose rock higher on the pitch and will allow you to get to the ground with a 60m. Oct 26, 2016
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
Yeah, I gotta disagree with Dan as well. I used a standard rack and was totally fine with gear to spare, and that was before I was a strong trad climber. Use the optional belay if you're worried about running out or pro or runners.

And no way is this 5.7+. Sure, it might be 5.7+ at other areas, but that's the Gunks for ya. Something Interesting is 5.7+, this is much easier. Aug 9, 2016
Joel Ryan
New York, New York
  5.6
Joel Ryan   New York, New York
  5.6
Don't let Dan scare you, this route can be safely led on a regular rack, and while its exposed, think of it as high E's underrated little brother. If you are concerned about running out of gear or encountering too much rope drag, just break the pitch up with a belay right before the crux. It's nice and cozy, takes some nuts and a #3. Your partner gets the added bonus of watching you disappear around the corner.

At the start, keep out of the corner and stay in the crack for the full experience! If you know how to lock, it's typical gunks 5.6. Jul 27, 2016
Systematic  
 
Don't hesitate to get on this one. Fun finger crack to start takes really good gear.
The variety of climbing makes this better than High E P2 for me. Sep 8, 2015
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.7+
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.7+
>: I used more gear on this route than I've ever used on a single pitch. You'll need to put double-length runners on pretty much everything until you pass the corner, and then also for the roof. Because I used long runners, and the dicey beginning, I placed more pro early on, but not excessively. Even then, it was runout with ground fall potential after the crack, though this section is easy.

I carry more gear than most, and still wished I had more. I can't imagine leading this without some doubles. I took a photo of the gear I placed, I used all that plus about 4 borrowed slings. I really could have used a third .75, and probably a .5 and another #1 as well.

Agreed that a #3 c4 can protect the crux, though it's set far back under the roof, and it is tricky- it's tight getting it in there, but can still tip out if you don't place it carefully. I like the small placement near the edge of the crux better- Yes it's a pain to both place and clean, but made me feel a lot better about making that move. It was marginal with a .5 x4, but I think a .75 would have been solid- definitely save one.


Aug 11, 2015
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.7+
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.7+
The exposure of the roof move is incredible, it makes High-E look like bunny. Looking out from under the roof (or even from the ground), you have no clue what's around the corner, and I could not fathom how it would be a 5.6 - but you have to just trust that it is. It's not bad at all once you commit to the move.

The real crux for me was the beginning, and I think that makes this route extremely sandbagged- it's basically a crack climb (reminiscent of Ken's Crack), but with a few small slabby holds and sidepulls spread around, often no good feet. The crack will take decent gear, but those placements also occupy key handholds, and you don't have a good stance to place it. I didn't do this section clean, so I'm not sure about the rating, but I'll call it about 5.7 to 5.7+.

[Descent]: Our 70 meter rope reached the ground easily, even without rope stretch, but there wasn't much margin of error. Aug 11, 2015
Mthoresz  
 
Awesome first pitch! Exciting exit, but everything is right there once you commit with your hands above you. I agree with Kenr about the cam just before the crux move. As a shorter climber who was following, I felt exposed getting that cam out, but once I did, the exit was perfect.

P2 was pretty dirty, which made for more excitement than we were looking for. Jul 21, 2014
kenr  
There is a very secure cam placement out near the edge of the crux roof on P1 -- but consider that removing that piece might be rather strenuous and intimidating for your follower -- and they might then lose their appetite for actually for actually performing the crux moves.
So I'd recommend taking some thought about which piece and how to place it -- and some explicit communication with follower about how they should remove it. Jun 3, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Loved the big P1 move. Great holds so just go for it. Two 60m ropes got us down from the top, but it was really hard to pull the ropes. Not sure where all the drag came from. May 20, 2013
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
 
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
 
The exit move is one of my favorite moves in all of the gunks right now. It was awesome! Just got to remember it's only 5.6! Apr 30, 2012
doligo
  5.6
doligo  
  5.6
Asphodel, the climb right next to it, is way better IMO. While I had a #3 with me to protect the exit, you can also place a smaller cam closer to the nose of the traverse.

Rappel: 2 60M will get you all the way to the ground, just make sure to throw ropes skier's right (or they will get tangled in the pine tree on P1 belay). Aug 9, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
P1 is great. It looks very improbable from the ground, but, the holds reveal themselves as you ascend. It's a great, exciting climb with a great move under the roof.

P2 is fun, nice and mellow. Jul 28, 2009
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.6
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.6
P1 is the worth doing, don't remember P2 much other than some dirty rocks. My follower backed off twice on the P1's airy exit. Definitely interesting, bring a big cam. I don't remember which one I used, maybe BD #4? Oct 28, 2008