Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Joe Kelsey, Dick Williams 1968
Page Views: 9,389 total · 57/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Credibility Gap is a fun 5.6 just the the left of Asphodel's huge right-facing corner. The route begins right at the base of the corner.

Pitch 1 is a good introduction to 5.6 for a solid 5.5 leader. The crux moves are exciting and exposed, but the holds are all big, and the moves well protected. The route is better than it looks from the ground.

P1: Climb the crack in the slick but slabby left face of the corner. From the top, diagonal up and left on easy rock to an obvious, low-angle right facing corner. You can belay here, but I found no need to. Climb the ramp and corner to the roof, then make an airy exit left onto the face.

After The Move, go 20' straight up the steep face to the ledge with a couple pine trees to belay ( a 70m is necessary to descend from the left side of this ledge. Or traverse left immediately after pulling through the 'move' to the bolted rappel station over Welcome to the Gunks to avoid the loose rock higher on the pitch, and rappel to the ground with one 60m rope. 5.6 G/PG, ~110 feet.

P2: Straight up to the largest overhang about 30 feet up, step left and climb up the face to a small flaky left-facing corner, step back right and go up to a pine tree on the GT ledge. 5.5 PG, 60 feet.

Descent: From the GT ledge, two ropes to the ground; or rappel leftwards to the double-bolt anchor above Welcome to the Gunks.

Location

Between the Mac Wall and Beginner's Delight; starts at the obvious Asphodel corner. The trail for Welcome to the Gunks provides the quickest access.

Protection

The Williams guide gives P1 a PG rating; however, I felt the pitch was G. The crux protects well with a 3" cam. There are some short runouts, but only on very easy rock. Other than the large cam, a standard Gunks rack is fine.

Photos