Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,907 total · 20/month
Shared By: JoeNY on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

You & This Route


12 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This climb is interesting and deserves more traffic. The P2 crux is unique for the Gunks with mandatory crack climbing, similar to the Bonnie's Roof Direct crux but double the length, exposure and jamming difficulty.

P1: This is a link-up from Tough Shift to No Existence. After tackling the crux of Tough Shift at the thin jagged crack and reaching the orange face section, move right to the right-facing corner of No Existence. Continue up easy terrain until you reach a tree with slings for a comfortable hanging belay. 5.10a, 120'.

P2: Right above you is the crux of P2 that requires mandatory jamming on steep overhanging terrain. After a few (desperate) short jamming moves, face holds appear again to exit the overhanging section. This pitch could be sandbagged if you are not used to crack climbing. There is a tree at the top for a belay. 5.10a++, 70'.

Location Suggest change

Start on Tough Shift below the thin jagged crack. At the top, there is a tree with slings about 20' to the climber's left for rappel above Coex and Try Again. Be careful of the climbers on those routes when lowering your rope. One double rope (70m) rappel or two single rope (60m) rappels get you to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack plus a #4 or #5 BD to protect the jamming crux of P2 to avoid hitting the rocks and tree below you if you blow the crux.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading