Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 617 total · 17/month
Shared By: JoeNY on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details

Description

This climb is interesting and deserves more traffic. The P2 crux is unique for the Gunks with mandatory crack climbing, similar to the Bonnie's Roof Direct crux but double the length, exposure and jamming difficulty.

P1: This is a link-up from Tough Shift to No Existence. After tackling the crux of Tough Shift at the thin jagged crack and reaching the orange face section, move right to the right-facing corner of No Existence. Continue up easy terrain until you reach a tree with slings for a comfortable hanging belay. 5.10a, 120'.

P2: Right above you is the crux of P2 that requires mandatory jamming on steep overhanging terrain. After a few (desperate) short jamming moves, face holds appear again to exit the overhanging section. This pitch could be sandbagged if you are not used to crack climbing. There is a tree at the top for a belay. 5.10a++, 70'.

Location

Start on Tough Shift below the thin jagged crack. At the top, there is a tree with slings about 20' to the climber's left for rappel above Coex and Try Again. Be careful of the climbers on those routes when lowering your rope. One double rope (70m) rappel or two single rope (60m) rappels get you to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack plus a #4 or #5 BD to protect the jamming crux of P2 to avoid hitting the rocks and tree below you if you blow the crux.

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