Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1960: Art Gran and Jim McCarthy
Page Views: 529 total · 4/month
Shared By: bryan barnett on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

1. Up face past a right-facing flake and overhang to stance. Move up past a creaking right-facing flake (see comments below) into a right facing corner and overhang. Undercling right, then up and right to belay.

2. Up face to three inch crack that breaks an overhang. Pass the overhang to a stance. Then up face and right facing corner to GTLedge.

Location

Start 40 feet right of Overhanging Layback's large right-facing corner.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

J. Nickel
  5.9+
J. Nickel  
  5.9+
The first pitch has good climbing, but I'd call it 5.9+. There is also an R-rated runout on 5.7 terrain past a very questionable flake. A large cam (blue Camalot or larger) is handy for the arching crack after the runout. Also, the anchor at the top of the first pitch consists of two old pins, two ancient tricams, and an extra-crispy sling hanging down from a tie-off, all tied together with slings and rings of uncertain vintage. It can be backed up fairly easily, but bear this in mind if you're not planning on doing the second pitch. Mar 30, 2009
paulmadry
  5.9- R
paulmadry  
  5.9- R
That's right. There is R section of flakes (it is 5.7ish utill they pop) Aug 6, 2009
Spiro Spiro
  5.9 R
Spiro Spiro  
  5.9 R
Wish I know about the R section. Williams guide has it as a G rating. Surprise! Sep 20, 2009
chewtoynj   NJ
Swain has this straight up version rated as a 5.10. The original route goes right after the first roof on poorly protected good holds.

I climbed this 2 weeks ago. Def wish I knew about the runout beforehand. Apr 23, 2010
JSH

JSH    
After limping my way up this yesterday - I've changed the rating to 5.9 and PG-13 (at least! and consensus here says PG13 or R). This route would be so much more fun if it were clean/secure.

The rap station now has: 2 pitons, 2 pink tricams and an old U-stem green camalot, with some improved but already aging slingage. If I'd had any energy left, I would have cleaned up & replaced some of the cord, but ... alas. Aug 8, 2010
Went up this yesterday and had a blast. First pitch is definitely PG13. The rap / belay station at the top of the first pitch got a bit of new cord but the slings on the tri cams could do with replacing. There is a rap station at the top of the second pitch off a tree with webbing and pro cord. You have to angle right when repelling down to the mid rap station so use a prusik . Jun 27, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9 PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9 PG13
The crack on p. 2 is way larger than 3". The anchor atop p. 1 is 1 deteriorating pink tricam (swap it out, tell me, and I'll give you one), decent webbing, and two pins. Apr 30, 2012
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Yeah, not 9-, and not G, but really fun climb. Jun 17, 2014
Ben Hoste
Tucson, AZ
 
Ben Hoste   Tucson, AZ
 
Really enjoyed this route. Does anyone have opinion on the undercling traverse on P1 versus the undercling traveler on Dry Heaves? Jun 22, 2018