Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wilde, 1941
Page Views: 28,764 total · 155/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: RJ B

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Until the mid-2000s, you could identify this route by its iconic set of pine trees.  Now, there are fewer.

Though it has some competition, this is the best 5.3 at the Gunks. It is the steepest 5.3 that I have ever been on! This area, the Mac wall, is another destination area, since there are a number of high quality routes nearby. One of the three old pine trees is now missing due to an ice storm in 2002.

The Three Pines access trail is about a 5-6 min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 1-2 min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. The trail arrives just below MF.

Start below a corner system 30' left of the obvious crack of Something Interesting, at a short right-facing blocky corner with a small tree on a ledge at ~8'. Two huge pine trees can be seen above.

P1: Angle up and left into a left-facing dihedral. Follow this crack to a large ledge with a pine tree. 5.3, 60'.

(It is straightforward to combine P1 and P2 - just take care to keep your rope away from pine sap.)

P2: Continue up the right-facing dihedral with a large fat crack to your left. Finish on a large ledge with a bolt anchor. 5.3, 50'.

P3: Re-establish your belay about 30' to the right, below the next left-facing corner system. Climb the blocky left-facing dihedral above, using the "diving board". Step right (or straight up the short hand crack -- 5.6), then work up the face above. 5.3, 50'.

Descent: Walk back left to a big pine tree, and find a set of bolts; three rappels with one rope using bolt anchors.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos