PRINT: Rock Climb Three Pines, The Gunks

Three Pines

5.3, Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3.1 from 574 votes
FA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wilde, 1941
New York > Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…

Description

Until the mid-2000s, you could identify this route by its iconic set of pine trees. Now, there are fewer.

Though it has some competition, this is the best 5.3 at the Gunks. It is the steepest 5.3 that I have ever been on! This area, the Mac wall, is another destination area, since there are a number of high quality routes nearby. One of the three old pine trees is now missing due to an ice storm in 2002.

The Three Pines access trail is about a 5-6 min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 1-2 min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. The trail arrives just below MF.

Start below a corner system 30' left of the obvious crack of Something Interesting, at a short right-facing blocky corner with a small tree on a ledge at ~8'. Two huge pine trees can be seen above.

P1: Angle up and left into a left-facing dihedral. Follow this crack to a large ledge with a pine tree. 5.3, 60'.

(It is straightforward to combine P1 and P2 - just take care to keep your rope away from pine sap.)

P2: Continue up the right-facing dihedral with a large fat crack to your left. Finish on a large ledge with a bolt anchor. 5.3, 50'.

P3: Re-establish your belay about 30' to the right, below the next left-facing corner system. Climb the blocky left-facing dihedral above, using the "diving board". Step right (or straight up the short hand crack -- 5.6), then work up the face above. 5.3, 50'.

Descent: Walk back left to a big pine tree, and find a set of bolts; three rappels with one rope using bolt anchors.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting pitch 3, next to the dangler

Pitch 3! Yellow shows the 5.3 line for Three Pines, and then the Red is the 5.6 alternate crack.

Approaching pine #1 on pitch 1

Pitch two corner

The corner of P2

I happened to be up there the day after the pine fell. This is the ice storm that brought down the huge tree.

Love the steepness on 5.3

Some steep 5.3!

picture from the anchor/rap station at the top of pitch 2

Starting P3. All the way to the right.

Looking down at the 2nd belay while heading up the 3rd pitch.

Stephen starting out on 3 pines

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Puzman puziss

Not sure if its the BEST 5.3 at the Gunks (my vote would be for Beginner's Delight or Minty), but it sure is a fun route. Great pro the whole way, great exposure on the 3rd pitch, hard to believe its a 5.3. My first trad lead ever. Watch for rope drag on 3rd pitch. Sep 9, 2009

Mike McLean

I agree with the 3rd pitch rope drag issue brought up by Puzman. Belay from the right side of the ledge to avoid it. Jun 26, 2010

David Ford
Cambridge, MA

Fun route. Recommend doing at least one of the 5.6 variations on the third pitch to limit the otherwise mind-boggling rope drag. Alternatively, make another belay once you complete the traverse to the ledge. Communication with your second from the top of p3 may be difficult. Aug 9, 2010

kenr

5.4 PG13

Can be kinda tricky to get off the ledge at the start of P3. Especially for less-tall climbers who aren't accustomed to taking high steps.

If have any doubt about the ability of your second, best to split P3 into two, stop and belay just above the exciting traverse, so you can talk to your follower(s).

There are two possible left-facing corners that could be climbed to start P3. I've usually taken the left of the two, because I found that I could protect it with a stopper and oppositional. Of course placing pro means that I've committed my second to climb the same corner that I chose.

Most recently I tried the (more obvious) right corner to start P3 -- seemed a little easier to get off the ground, a little more interesting climbing moves -- but definitely I was higher off the ledge before I could get in some solid pro. Oct 29, 2010

Joseph D'Agostino

Took my first Trad lead on it today. Really nice, and it wasn't too busy. Many stances with which to place gear really solidly. Then again, its a (5.3). Thanks to Tony Lopez for all the help in getting me on my first Trad multi-pitch lead! Oct 22, 2011

Nathan Stokes

Led the 2nd and "4th" pitches today. We did the 3rd pitch from the chains at the top of the second pitch to the ledge above the Dangler. That made communication easy for both of the upper pitches. Did the 5.6ish finish straight up the face (with the pin) to top out. Great climb, though the crack on P2 was a bit wet Oct 22, 2011

Andy Cao
Las Vegas, NV

We did a 2.5th pitch by traversing across the GT ledge to underneath the Dangler and setting up another belay station. I would highly recommend bringing walkie-talkies for this one, as the 3rd pitch goes up and around making nearly impossible to communicate with your follower esp when it's windy.

The first half of the 3rd pitch was great - lots of exposure but the holds were all there. For those without walkie-talkies, I would recommend setting up another belay station right after coming around the left-facing corner.

I also thought the final 15 feet up the grey face was much harder than a 5.3 - not as many footholds and jugs. I belayed the follower from the pine tree. Has anyone belayed from the bolts on the last pitch? Apr 22, 2012

Andy Griffin

5.3

I've done this climb more times than I care to admit. It's a great climb that can be ruined by overcrowding. I like to bring new climbers up it, but I like to do so at 7AM or earlier so we can get on it first and have it to ourselves.

I usually link P1 and P2 if crowds allow, they are both short and straight. If I'm doing the traditional finish, I like to split P3 and belay at the ledge with boulders right after the crux traverse. This allows me to talk new climbers through the crux and reduces drag.

If you can climb 5.6, going straight up the corner and then up the slab with the pin is much more fun than the wandering 5.3 P3. May 24, 2012

Edward Jenny

This was my first multi-pitch trad lead at the Gunks. Great choice with lots of pro and good holds. The step around on pitch 3 was airy but took a bomber hex right before the move. The guidebook talks about traversing right after pic three but that ledge was all overgrown. I thought the 5.1R option of walking up the slab to the chains was easier. Aug 6, 2015

Andrew Emerick
CA

Just did this again for the first time in a while, doing the 5.5+/5.6 variation going directly up the white face at the very end of the route. I faintly remember there being a piton there to protect this move when I did it a few years back, but did not see one this time around. Does anyone know what happened to it? or do I just have a bad memory? Oct 23, 2017

Hayden Ward
CA

5.3

There is a loose rock on Pitch 2 of this climb. It is a few feet above the first piton to your left when you enter the small alcove. Beware! The recent rain washed off the chalk x and it was too wet to mark at the time. Stay safe! May 17, 2018

Don Eiver
Westchester County, NY

Fantastic beginner outing! Make sure to squeeze out every last drop of this climb by doing 5.6 variation on P3. Solid anchor options at the top of each pitch. Jul 24, 2019

Paul K

Hey everybody! This accidentally ended up being my first 5.5+ lead ever. After the diving board and traverse, I was going to take the route in the gunks app on the ledges to climbers right at the very top near the white face, but they've become very overgrown. Ended up doing the white face but it felt very spicy for my newbie leading skills. Beware if you're looking for the old 5.3 finish; you might find yourself climbing your own first 5.5+ or taking the 5.1R scoop to climbers left to the rap station. Sep 1, 2020

Pieter Beerepoot
Boston, MA

Paul are you talking about the last stretch up the face to top out? If so I think you have to curve around to climbers left there. In any case, the 5.6 face variation is the obvious line here. I did not see a pin here. Aside from putting in some nuts to keep me from falling off the ledge, I couldn’t get in a piece until about 11-12 ft up. Definitely spicy if you’re expecting 5.3, and could get a 5.3 leader in to trouble. Oct 5, 2020

Barry Fuller

5.3

First off, I love this climb. Having said that, what's the point of grades if not to differentiate what's harder than other stuff? There's no way on Earth that P3 is the same level of climbing as P1 & P2. It's not "oh my god a new leader is going to get in trouble" hard, but it's noticeably harder, especially right at the end (which I guess it the variation). Also, communication on P3 is a nightmare, so bring walkies. Apr 19, 2021

The Weavers
High Falls NY

Such fantastic climbing the whole way. Combining the first two pitches and going to the GT ledge from the ground is recommended. The direct finish at the top is a great way to finish the experience. Aug 22, 2021

Scott Doering
The Gunks

5.3

Very steep for a 5.3 but with the crazy abundance of holds it’s still very easy. Great pro all the way (although you really don’t need much). Very easy to link P1 and P2. Incredible views and exposure up top. Shorter climbers may have trouble starting P3, where radios for communication may come in handy. Easy to rap down. Will definitely be back! Jun 13, 2022

Sean Curry
Roosevelt, NJ

Interesting climb!

Split the last pitch into two to minimize rope drag and communicate with my partner. Made a quick belay with two trees on top of the "diving board".

Also I used a 0.75, #1, and #2 to build an anchor after moving the belay. Jul 17, 2022

rogerbenton

Great route.
Watch out for P3 rope drag and belayer communication issues.
If you are bringing up someone new, it might be best to break P3 into two short pitches (easily done). Oct 14, 2023