Avg: 3.4 from 72 votes
Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
|Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R|
|Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R|
|Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Redirectional Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X|
|Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Richardson, Dick Saum, Ivan Rezucha, 1974.|
|Page Views:||4,325 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Mar 6, 2006|
DescriptionStar Action was my first first ascent (FFA?). See the comments for my version of the story. It's since become very popular--an easier version of Coexistence just to the left. Dick Williams' recent guides call it 10b. Todd Swain calls it 10+. I have no idea, but it's easier than Coex, and likely harder than 10bs in most climbing areas.
P1: Climb the face and up a thin crack at 5.7 or 5.8, with not much gear, to a horizontal. Protect the second, then traverse left and up to the right edge of the ledge. Most parties will belay here.
P2: Follow a thin crack past a few short, thin horizontal cracks to a ceiling. On the FA, we placed a pin in one of the horizontals and one at the ceiling - I don't know if they are still there. In his latest Trapps Guide (aka the Gray Dick), Dick Williams has the crux nailed: "Work/dyno up to a jug (physical crux), then move left into the corner (mental crux) ..."
The move over the ceiling was always at the limit of my finger strength for doing it statically. But the move left into the corner was always the crux for me - you have to extend left from the jug, with not much for your feet, to a layback. Transitioning into the layback is spooky. Once you're there, it's easy. There's another way, though. From the jug, if you're strong enough, you can reach straight up to a positive hold and then just step up to stand on the jug.
Above the ceiling, move up and right to a bolt anchor (obviously not there on the FA; in those days, we would traverse left to the Coex pin anchors to bail after P2 of Star Action).
P3: Rarely done; continue up the right-facing corner to a large roof. Roll over the roof at a break, a la beached whale, at 5.9. Todd Swain's guide says this roof had been done previously.
P4: There is apparently an easy pitch leading to the top. In those days, Dick Williams wouldn't put a climb in the guide if it didn't go all the way to the top; hence many routes included less-than-aesthetic upper or bottom pitches just to ensure getting in the next guidebook.
LocationThe McCarthy Wall ("Mac Wall") is bounded on the left by the huge right-facing corner of Three Pines. Its bounded on the right by the smaller right-facing corner of Overhanging Layback. Midway on the Mac Wall is a short-left facing corner starting 15' off the ground that leads to a ledge that extends to the right. Men at Arms and Try Again start up this corner. Coex starts just to the right. Star Action starts to the right of the right edge of the ledge.
The Mac Wall access trail is about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trial meets the carriage road.
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