Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Bernays, 1954 FFA Art Gran, 1960s.
Page Views: 954 total · 12/month
Shared By: matt matera on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


Pitch 1: Climb up 20' to a small ledge, then diagonal right 15' to a small ledge and horizontal at an overhang. From this spot you can either take the direct route straight up (but beware that a hold has broken off the direct roof variation and gear is hard to place; Williams says 5.10a but I say 10d-ish?); or traverse left (5.6) on good hands but poor feet, 25' left then up 10' up, and then back right 30' to a corner and a semi-hanging belay stance.

Pitch 2: Diagonal up right through overhangs (strenuous 5.8) past a new piton, then continue on to the Welcome to the Gunks bolt anchor, which will get you to the ground with one 60m rope.


Below the left side of a block that is sitting on a ledge 10 feet off the ground, 40 feet to the left of Welcome to the Gunks.


Standard Gunks rack; a blue C4 camalot #3 is helpful on 5.6 traverse.


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gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Direct variation: a bit strenuous and a bit run out. Second overhang was steep, but positive holds. We rapped from the "Welcome to the Gunks" bolts with a 70M rope. Nov 27, 2016
I did the direct variation with Gail, and whatever we did was certainly easier than 10d. After leaving the traverse and moving up the flake (which was harder than 5.8 but easier than 5.10d-- I thought this was the 10a part), I used holds just slightly left of the break at the overhang. Maybe if you force yourself to stay precisely in line with the break it will be 10d, but I think this is contrived. If you make the tiny jog left at the overhang there is gear right there, which you really want. If you blow the move at the flake you are in for a bit of a ride and if you didn't get gear at the overhang and blew it there you'd be flyin'! Nov 28, 2016