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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lanman / R-Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Bernays, 1954 FFA Art Gran, 1960s.
Page Views: 826 total · 12/month
Shared By: matt matera on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up 20' to a small ledge, then diagonal right 15' to a small ledge and horizontal at an overhang. From this spot you can either take the direct route straight up (but beware that a hold has broken off the direct roof variation and gear is hard to place; Williams says 5.10a but I say 10d-ish?); or traverse left (5.6) on good hands but poor feet, 25' left then up 10' up, and then back right 30' to a corner and a semi-hanging belay stance.

Pitch 2: Diagonal up right through overhangs (strenuous 5.8) past a new piton, then continue on to the Welcome to the Gunks pine-tree rap station. You'll want two ropes to get to the ground from here.

Location

Below the left side of a block that is sitting on a ledge 10 feet off the ground, 40 feet to the left of Welcome to the Gunks.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack; a blue C4 camalot #3 is helpful on 5.6 traverse.

Photos

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gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Direct variation: a bit strenuous and a bit run out. Second overhang was steep, but positive holds. We rapped from the "Welcome to the Gunks" bolts with a 70M rope. Nov 27, 2016
SethG  
I did the direct variation with Gail, and whatever we did was certainly easier than 10d. After leaving the traverse and moving up the flake (which was harder than 5.8 but easier than 5.10d-- I thought this was the 10a part), I used holds just slightly left of the break at the overhang. Maybe if you force yourself to stay precisely in line with the break it will be 10d, but I think this is contrived. If you make the tiny jog left at the overhang there is gear right there, which you really want. If you blow the move at the flake you are in for a bit of a ride and if you didn't get gear at the overhang and blew it there you'd be flyin'! Nov 28, 2016

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