Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Pitch 1, Rich Perch and Ivan Rezucha, 195. Pitches 2 and 3, Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, and Lucien Warner, 1955
Page Views: 2,747 total · 19/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Sep 17, 2009
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

1. Start by climbing the right side of the left-facing corner, up to an overhang. Swing around right, then traverse right ~40' until you're below a stance in a right-facing corner. Climb up to the ledge/stance and build a belay. 70 feet, 5.6.

2. Climb the corner about 8-10 feet to an obvious horizontal, then traverse out left to a bolt. Pass the bolt (crux) and then go up and right for about 25 feet to some ledges. There are several you can use; one has two old pins and a fixed piece. 70 feet, 5.7.

3. Climb straight up to a corner system then on to the top. 60 feet, 5.4.

From the clifftop, walk right to various rappel stations.

Location

At the rightmost end of the McCarthy Wall there is a large, right-facing corner system. Walk past that for about 200 feet and look for the left-facing corner that starts the route. Another 20' feet right you'll see a left-leaning crack, which is the start of Tequila Mockingbird.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack

Photos