Type: Trad, TR, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 41.73935, -74.1842
FA: Russ Raffa, Russ Clune, Jeff Gruenberg, Pete Thexton, 1981
Page Views: 464 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Hoste on Mar 17, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Listed in both the Williams Guide and Gunks App. Starts below massive roof about 50' right of Dry Martini / Tequila Mockingbird. Climb up easy slab to steep but not too difficult moves just below short right facing corner in small roof halfway between the ground and the massive roof above. Here you can climb straight up on the face (harder) or move right first and follow broken crack diagonally up and right. More easy slab up and right brings you to large left facing corner beneath the massive roof. There is a tat anchor here. Step around corner to the right, move right a little bit and then pull over roof on dirty crimps and jugs (would benefit from traffic or some light brushing on key holds). Once surmounting the roof, good pro exists (#3 Camelot) to protect the second before you traverse left 25' or so to a fixed anchor (two pins and two buts with cord). This anchor can be used to TR this pitch, as well as the more direct variation described in the Willams guide. Anchor seemed solid as of March 2022, but can be backed up with small and medium cams as well. This anchor can easily be reached when rappelling from the top of Dry Martini / Tequila Mockingbird. 

Williams describes a second pitch that goes at 5.8. See his guide for details. 

The direct variation, surmounts the massive roof just below the anchor. Head towards orange flake beneath the roof, where there is a fixed pin. Head out and left under the roof on great hand holds with evaporating feet. Roof move goes at 5.11b/c PG, FA 1988, Jeff Morris and Jim Damon. 

Route was originally named Foreign Exchange, but renamed to honor Pete Thexton after his death in 1983.   

Location Suggest change

About 50' right of the start of Dry Martini, below massive roof with short right racing corner in overlap halfway between ground and roof. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Micro cams would likely fit in the lip before pulling the roof crux move.

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