Type: Trad, 80160 ft, 12 pitches
FA: Kevin Bein and Ron Sacks (1976)
Page Views: 1,431 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

P1 is actually very nice, but it is often wet and the crux gear (an old fixed pin) may be questionable. Use a screamer. I have not climbed P2, so the description is not mine.

P1 - Climb up to the overhang and traverse left to a seam. Climb the seam and the bulge above (crux) to easier rock and a stance. Escape left to Overhanging Layback, or move up and left to an overhang (5.8 R) then up past the overhang to a belay at a block (you can again escape left by traversing past a jammed block before the overhang).

P2 - Up the easy face to a white face and small right-facing corner capped by an overhang and fixed pins. Move up left to another fixed pin (Lost Arrow), then up and left again to a right-facing corner (5.10a, crux) and a stance. Follow the corner to a ceiling, exit left, and chimney up a past bird droppings to the GT ledge.

Location

Below a small overhang just right of the obvious Overhanging Layback flake and right-facing corner.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack + a screamer for the P1 crux pin.

Photos

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Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
Sprax Lines   Brookline, MA
A little "gardening" on lead and it goes, despite water seeping out of the small pod for a hand and/or foot about 18 feet up. (Consider bringing a towel.) Hard to protect without clogging up a decent hold or two. May 19, 2015
akline
  5.11b R
akline  
  5.11b R
you can sling the tree behind you pretty easily to back up the pin at the crux. there is also a tree with a rap station up in the large right facing corner to the left that you can get down with a 60m rope. Aug 31, 2017