Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Phil Jacobus, John Hudson, & Peter Armour - 1962FFA: Rich Goldstone & Jim McCarthy - 1967
Page Views: 14,389 total · 92/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


135 Opinions

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Description

Co-Ex is a fantastic single pitch climb on the MF wall. It is considered "the" 5.10 Gunks testpiece... It's rated 10d, but with the correct beta it should feel, oh, about 11a. It's unbelievable to me that the FFA was done in 1967.

Start 20' right of Try Again at a left-facing corner. Climb up to the ledge that's 20 ft. up (a block was broken off here in 2009). Walk 15 ft. right along the ledge, and then follow the broken left-angling crack up and through the overhang (crux), then step left and up to a bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

A fantastic route with fun moves and a somewhat devious crux. It should be noted that although this climb is mostly well-protected, the opening moves past the first piece of gear are not; however, the climbing is relatively easy. Aside from that, the route eats gear. Oct 18, 2008
paulmadry
  5.10d
paulmadry  
  5.10d
Be aware that there is 15-20 feet of R/X 5.8 climbing to get to the ledge. Crux is well protected. Aug 6, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I don't believe that's correct Paul. I remember getting good gear below the ledge. I'm thinking it was around a #0 TCU or something like that. Aug 6, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I seconded this climb, so my comments are based on that perspective.

A fun start to some good face moves lead to a hard crux move. I nearly pumped out trying to make the move over the roof. Aug 8, 2009
Allison Quirk
San Diego, CA
  5.11a
Allison Quirk   San Diego, CA
  5.11a
Agree w/ Paul. First 25 feet is 5.8 R/X. Beyond that gear is G. Pins at crux are easily backed up and fall is clean! Nov 27, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I followed this today - what a fantastic route. I will come back and lead it someday this year for sure... Mar 18, 2012
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
 
i lead this today and still dont know the beta.... Aug 12, 2012
Richard Dana
Eugene, OR
  5.10+
Richard Dana   Eugene, OR
  5.10+
Incredible climb. You can get a blue tcu 10 feet up, but then its 15 feet of 5.8 to a ledge so the last bit is R. The rest is beautifully protected though. Oct 10, 2012
I'd add that the 5.8 runout is pretty straightforward and on positive holds Sep 4, 2013
Christopher Payan
Bronx, NY
  5.10d PG13
Christopher Payan   Bronx, NY
  5.10d PG13
I'd recommend not clipping the pitons at the crux, its more strenuous to reach out there to the left than to just throw a solid cam right in front of your face (which I would do anyway) so the pitons aren't really doing a whole lot for ya. Apr 29, 2014
City Dweller
New York, NY
 
City Dweller   New York, NY
 
Absolute classic! Gear's great. Definitely clip the pins. Oct 15, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10d
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10d
I would like to add that the 5.8 R/X section is very secure on moderately spaced positive holds. If you're climbing at this grade, the start shouldn't keep you off this awesome climb! Clipping the pins is totally unnecessary. Apr 8, 2016
SethG  
There is a little overlap at the one technical move in the early going-- I have gotten a variety of pieces in there. Small cams and small nuts. I think it is worth placing this one piece. After this one move the climbing is easier up to the ledge. You will be in groundfall range again before you reach the ledge, but the moves are quite easy. Apr 11, 2016
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
I avoided that 5.8 R/X section by climbing the easier and more protected corner about 15 feet left. I climbed and back-cleaned as I went up, and then walked across the ledge, setting an anchor below the left-leaning crack of CoEx before starting up the route. I later did the 5.8 start on top rope and was happy with my decision to avoid it. Oct 13, 2016
Sean Sullivan (above) has good beta for the start. I did the same start way off to the left but did not back clean. Later the rope worked itself into a crack way off to the left and I had to do a bunch of down climbing to go back and free it. So if you do that start, make sure the rope isn't going to get stuck. Oct 9, 2017
Ostap Vidov
mamaroneck
Ostap Vidov   mamaroneck
A great 10+ if you're looking to break into 11s or just to try something harder. The first 30' are unprotected even if you get a small 0.1 in under the bulge. Once you're on the ledge, the gear gets really good. Both cruxes are well protected. I took several falls at the high crux on 2 pitons and a solid 0.75.
Top crux beta is: left hand on pinch then right hand on crimp (8 about 10" above pinch on right side) then left hand on jug.
Great climb! Oct 19, 2018