Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Roman Sadowy, Claude Suhl, 1960
Page Views: 24,841 total · 112/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

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Description Suggest change

This is THE standard for 5.9 routes at the Gunks. It is a must do for a visiting climber. The route is located to the right of Three Pines on the right side of the Mac Wall.

P1: Climb the crack and face below the overhang, making a slight jog to the left. Once you're in the corner below the overhang, place gear in a horizontal on the face to your right, or just clip the piton. Hold your breath, and traverse right and up around the bulging roof onto a small ledge. Gain your balance and place some gear off to the right. Once you're past the roof, the 5.9 climbing doesn't let up, however!  Continue up then slightly left (~25'), finally finishing at a bolted anchor. The final moves on the steep wall above the roof are well protected but will test your endurance. A stimulating lead; 5.9, 80'.

Variation: Instead of moving right after clipping the piton, head straight up the overhang and climb the crack above to the anchor. 5.10a, R.

P2: Traverse right though a left-facing corner and through the notch in the roof. Continue upwards to a horizontal traverse to the left. Follow the right-facing dihedral to the GT Ledge. 5.9, 80'.

Descent: There is a bolted anchor atop P1. From P2, it is difficult to rappel to the P1 bolts due to the overhang. Instead, climb easier rock to the cliff top, then rappel the bolted line 50' to climber's left over Something Interesting, or descend with two ropes to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 3".