Avg: 3.6 from 367 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, Roman Sadowy, Claude Suhl, 1960|
|Page Views:||22,416 total · 118/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Climb the crack and face below the overhang, making a slight jog to the left. Once you're in the corner below the overhang, place gear in a horizontal on the face to your right, or just clip the piton. Hold your breath, and traverse right and up around the bulging roof onto a small ledge. Gain your balance and place some gear off to the right. Once you're past the roof, the 5.9 climbing doesn't let up, however! Continue up then slightly left (~25'), finally finishing at a bolted anchor. The final moves on the steep wall above the roof are well protected but will test your endurance. A stimulating lead; 5.9, 80'.
Variation: Instead of moving right after clipping the piton, head straight up the overhang and climb the crack above to the anchor. 5.10a, R.
P2: Traverse right though a left-facing corner and through the notch in the roof. Continue upwards to a horizontal traverse to the left. Follow the right-facing dihedral to the GT Ledge. 5.9, 80'.
Descent: There is a bolted anchor atop P1. From P2, it is difficult to rappel to the P1 bolts due to the overhang. Instead, climb easier rock to the cliff top, then rappel the bolted line 50' to climber's left over Something Interesting, or descend with two ropes to the ground.