Avg: 3.4 from 122 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Kolocotronis, Herb Laeger, 1973|
|Page Views:||5,750 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Welch on Jun 3, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Use the MF access trail, about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. The trail deposits you at the base of MF; Mother's Day Party is the next route immediately to the left of MF. The route starts at the base of a small left-facing corner that arches towards the left.
P1: Climb straight up the corner and continue to a ledge. The first crux is getting through the small right-facing flakes to the base of the greenish corner. Step left, up the orange-colored face for a few moves, then step back right to the corner at a small overhang. Fire through three big moves on good holds (2nd crux) to the MF bolt anchors. 5.10b, 80'.
P2: Diagonal up and right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof (crux) to join MF, and follow it to the GT Ledge. 5.10a, 90'.