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Routes in e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)

Birdie Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Co-op T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coexistence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Credibility Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dangler, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dry Martini T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fall to Grace T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Fly Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Girly Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Grape Nuts T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graveyard Shift T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Higher Stannard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Impenetrable Ceilings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Interstice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Land Ho! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Land's End (Direct) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Laughing Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
MF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men At Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mother's Day Party T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Layback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Redirectional Idealism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4-5 X
Scene of the Climb T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Something Boring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Something Interesting T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Star Action T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Still Crazy After All These Years T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tequila Mockingbird T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Three Pines T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tough Existence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough Shift T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Try Again T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to the Gunks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Kolocotronis, Herb Laeger, 1973
Page Views: 4,045 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 3, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

One of the excellent 5.10s on the Mac Wall.

Use the MF access trail, about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. The trail deposits you at the base of MF; Mother's Day Party is the next route immediately to the left of MF. The route starts at the base of a small left-facing corner that arches towards the left.

P1: Climb straight up the corner and continue to a ledge. The first crux is getting through the small right-facing flakes to the base of the greenish corner. Step left, up the orange-colored face for a few moves, then step back right to the corner at a small overhang. Fire through three big moves on good holds (2nd crux) to the MF bolt anchors. 5.10b, 80'.

P2: Diagonal up and right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof (crux) to join MF, and follow it to the GT Ledge. 5.10a, 90'.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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SethG  
I agree with Simon-- I thought the pitch two roof was about as hard as the Interstice roof, definitely harder than Birdie Party's. Very interesting problem! The crux is reaching up into the rectangular notch and moving left. Then when you actually pull the roof it is easier. And I agree about the gear too. This second-pitch roof is committing because you can't get gear up in the notch before you go up there. You have to commit to making the hardest move into the notch with the gear basically at your feet, and then it is quite strenuous to place gear for the roof pull. Nov 21, 2017
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10c/d
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10c/d
Pawel, Mother's Day Party P2 goes left of MF through the roof at a rectangular break with tricky gear and devious beta. Birdie Party P2 fires the roof further left at a left-facing flake that comes out to the lip, and involves a strenuous heel hook. May 27, 2016
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.10b
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.10b
Such excellent climbing! The second crux is commiting but the first of the three moves is the hardest so just keep going. It's well protected by a mid-sized cam (or two if you're like me).

The variation Ivan speaks about (continue left up the arching corner instead of straight up the big moves towards MF anchors) is called Mother Bird in the new gunks app and rated 5.10d. It's a nice couple of fun moves, more like 10b than 10d.

I'm always confused about which way through the roof is Birdie Party and which way is Mother's Day Party. Jul 6, 2015
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10c/d
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10c/d
If the cruxes on pitch 1 are 10b, that puts the pitch 2 crux at 10d in my book. Pitch 1 sports really great climbing with good gear. The crux on pitch 2 involves a super reachy move(look for hidden crimp to avoid dyno) from an undercling with pro in less than ideal rock. Fun climb! Nov 11, 2014
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10b PG13
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10b PG13
Great route! Though, I'd say keep your wits about you after you commit to the 2nd crux...it'd be a nice, long fall if you peeled! Apr 4, 2011
paulmadry
  5.10b PG13
paulmadry  
  5.10b PG13
There is controversy over where exactly the second pitch goes. Guidebook sez diagonal right but that would be MF. I went straight up from the MF chains (with small pro in less than ideal rock) into rectangular break in ceiling. There was a piton five feet to right. Felt harder than 10a to reach the big hold in the ceiling but that's cuz I'm not tall. Aug 1, 2010
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
That may very well be, and Ivan would know better than I. I only TR'd it and was told that what I did was the correct line, which seems to agree with the line drawn in the photo in Dick William's gray book.
However, if the description needs editing, please let me know and I'll do it. May 28, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I think the description describes a variation that angles right out of the curving left facing corner to reach the MF bolt anchors. That's the sensible way to TR it from the MF anchors, but I believe the original route continued up and left in the arching corner past another crux move involving (for me) a one finger jam to reach the gigantic hand traverse flake. Oct 19, 2008