Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: 1953, Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden
Page Views: 8,109 total · 50/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Mar 29, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Named for a white and yellow flower in the lily family that, according to Homer's Odyssey, grows in abundance in the hereafter. This route had either no or one stars in the old guidebooks, and wasn't mentioned in the Williams Select guide either. However, with the new "Gray Dick", it was awarded three stars - and rightfully so. Great route, protection thin but solid, crux is well-protected with some thought, and there's some very heady, lower-angle face-climbing to end off the pitch. Pitch two, however, is very much not worth doing - overgrown, little protection, and very difficult communication.

P1: Climb the corner - watch for loose blocks - to the roof (crux), angle left, then climb much easier terrain to a belay near the top of Welcome to the Gunks.

P2: Bushwack through tons of shrubbery over uninspiring rock to the very top. Not worth it, IMHO.

Descent: from the top of P1, two 60m ropes reach the ground, or rappel leftwards to the bolt anchor above Welcome to the Gunks.

Location

Start at a large, yellow right-facing corner, 120 feet left of Beginner's Delight and just to the right of Welcome to the Gunks.

Protection

There's just enough protection to make this PG; the crux protects well although it requires a bit of thought, and above it can be run-out - but the terrain is literally 5.3 or less.

Photos