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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Matt Hale, Jim Alt, 1966. FFA: John Stannard, Henry Barber, 1973.
Page Views: 5,617 total, 40/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

The initial overhang on this route is much more imposing than the word "bulge" suggests, but "Beatle Brow Roof" lacks poetry. Either way, it's a great pitch. Historically rated 5.9+, the latest version of the Williams guide calls it 10-, which I think is accurate considering the sustained overhanging climbing above the roof.

Climb easy rock up to the roof, passing a vertically-placed pin about halfway up the face. Climb through the well-protected roof at a short left-facing corner/flake, and then straight up the overhanging face above on good holds. (Be aware that Blueberry Wine, a 5.11, goes through the roof at a similar looking left-facing corner a few feet to the right of BBB.)

Above the overhanging section is a ledge at which the angle eases and the rock becomes dirtier. There is a rap station at a tree about 30 feet above the ledge, from which a top-rope can be set up with a 70M rope. To rappel using a single 60, go to a bolted station off to climber's right.

There is a second pitch to the top, of lesser quality and difficulty, which angles up right to a left-facing corner.

Protection

Standard rack.

Location

The access trail for Beatle Brow Bulge is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, head uphill to the right, past the huge right-facing corner of Asphodel.

Begin about 70 feet right of Asphodel, where the trail levels off.

Photos

Brandon S
Weehawken, NJ
Brandon S   Weehawken, NJ
FYI, there are now bolted anchors up and right of the roof that allow you to rap off with a 60m Aug 7, 2017
Colin Porter
Norwalk, CT
Colin Porter   Norwalk, CT
5.10- or 5.9, who really cares?

It's a fun route but not worth the effort with such great climbs around it. Dirty holds start the climbing, and a fun roof pull, then more dirty steep edges.

There's a huge block in the roof maybe 4 X 3 feet that looks like it might eventually come off. It's tempting to place a #2 Camalot in the slot above this block but I'd highly suggest not... hard to tell because it doesn't feel loose yet. If it comes out, it'll fall directly on the belayer. Jun 15, 2015
Jackson vermeulen  
  5.9+
Agree with 5.9+, G. The roof is much less intimidating up close than it looks from the ground!

I didn't think it was very height dependent. I'm 5'7" and had no trouble protecting the crux. Apr 6, 2015
rogerbenton
  5.9+
rogerbenton  
  5.9+
5.9+, G, lots of fun.

Certainly easier than wegtables or simple suff.

small blue camalot for the roof. Jul 21, 2014
Byron Igoe
  5.9+
Byron Igoe  
  5.9+
Height dependent. I'm 6'3" and had no problem protecting the roof from below, or reaching the jugs above. I give it a 5.9 G, but those shorter than 5'9" might find it 5.10 PG. Jul 21, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Lots of fun. Nice burly pull. Jun 16, 2012
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
 
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
 
Super fun, but I'd put this at 5.8+, just as hard as Modern Times but with less exposure and a neat short pumpy face above the roof. Jan 10, 2012
If you extend the anchor from the pine tree about 5 to 8 feet, then it is possible to top-rope this climb with a 60m rope. I tried it and while it is very close, it worked. Jul 25, 2011
LLee
New York, New York
LLee   New York, New York
Be sure to pay attention to the beta above about needing a 70m rope to rappel or be lowered from the first pitch... we didn't, but at least we had tied a knot in the rope. Apr 25, 2011